How to Wear Lashes Without Glue

If you love the look of false lashes but you aren’t a fan of the sticky, clumpy, smelly lash glue that comes with it—you’re not alone! Unfortunately, homemade lash adhesives aren’t safe to use, but there are products out there that can replace your lash glue once and for all. Try out a few different methods to see which one works best for your makeup routine to look your best every time you walk out the door.

[Edit]Steps

[Edit]Magnetic Lashes

1. Hold the top lash layer between 2 fingers. Magnetic lashes work by pinching your natural lashes in between 2 layers of falsies. Pick up the top lash layer and hold it in between your pointer finger and your thumb for the best mobility.^[1]
   
   • If you’re having trouble, try using tweezers instead.
2. Balance the top lash on top of your natural lashes. Bring the top lash layer up to your natural lash line and get it as close to your top lashes as possible. If you can, let go of the fake lashes and let them balance on your natural lashes.^[2]
   
   
   • This might be a little bit tricky, but they should stay in place long enough so you can apply the bottom layer.
3. Press the bottom lash layer up toward the top lash layer. Grab the bottom layer of the fake lashes in between your 2 fingers and bring it up to your eye. Start pushing the bottom layer of the lashes up underneath your natural lashes to connect the fake lashes together at your lash line.^[3]
   
   
   • You might have to try this a few times, especially the first time you apply! That’s okay—it will definitely get easier as you practice.
4. Remove the lashes by pulling the layers apart. When it’s time to take your makeup off, grab one of the layers of lashes by the inner corner and pull. The lashes will separate as you take them off, and you can store them and wear them again.^[4]
   
   
   • If you used mascara on top of your fake lashes, wipe them down with makeup remover before putting them away.

[Edit]Magnetic Liner

1. Swipe the liner onto your upper lash line. Magnetic liners look just like a liquid eyeliner pen. Start from the inner corner of your lashes and swipe outward to cover your whole upper lash line.^[5]
   
   
   • You can use the liner on top of eyeshadow and other eyeliner if you want to.
2. Press the false lashes onto your liner. Grab your magnetic lashes and hole one in between 2 fingers. Press your lashes on top of your natural lash line, then use your fingers to adjust them if you need to.^[6]
   
   
   • If your lashes are too long, use scissors to trim them down to the shape of your eye.
3. Peel the lashes off when you’re done with them. At the end of the day, pull the lashes up at the inner corner and slowly pull them off your eyelid. You can save magnetic lashes as long as they aren’t caked in mascara or eyeshadow.^[7]
   
   
   • If your liner isn’t coming off, use an oil-based makeup remover on a cotton swab to gently cleanse your eye area.

[Edit]Mascara Adhesive

1. Swipe the adhesive onto your upper lashes. Mascara adhesive looks exactly like a normal mascara wand applicator. Apply the adhesive to the underside of your upper lashes, just like you would a normal mascara.^[8]
   
   
   
   • You can only use mascara adhesive on your upper lashes, not your lower ones.
2. Pick up a small section of lashes with tweezers. Most mascara adhesive kits come with individual lash sections instead of full false lashes sets. Use the eyelash tweezers to pick up one small section at a time.^[9]
   
   • The smaller sections will adhere much easier than heavy full sets of lashes.
3. Press the lashes onto the underside of your upper lashes. Try to get the false lashes as close to your natural lash line as possible. Use the tweezers to adjust them if you need to until they look mostly natural.^[10]
   
   
   • If you need to, you can peel the false lashes off and try again.
4. Keep adding lashes until you’re happy with your look. You can add as many or as few of the small lash sets as you’d like! For a more natural look, stick to the outer corner of your eye; for a glam look, try filling in all of your lashes.^[11]
   
   
   • Only put the lash sets in a single layer; that way, they won’t get too heavy to stay on your eye.
5. Remove the lashes with makeup remover. When it’s time to remove your makeup, press a cotton pad with makeup remover over your eyes. Then, use 2 fingers to gently pull the false lashes off your natural lashes. The adhesive is gentle enough that it shouldn’t pull off any of your natural lashes.^[12]
   
   
   • You may be able to reuse your small lash sets if you can keep track of them.

[Edit]Self-Adhesive Lashes

1. Pinch one of the lashes with the applicator. Most self-adhesive lashes come with a plastic applicator that kind of looks like a set of tweezers. Use the applicator to grab the lashes so you don’t have to touch them directly with your hands.^[13]
   
   • You can also use regular tweezers instead.
2. Press the lashes onto your upper lash line. Try to get as close to your natural lash line as possible. The lashes already have an adhesive strip on them, so you don’t need to add any glue beforehand.^[14]
   
   
   • It can be a little tough to line up your lashes perfectly the first time, so don’t sweat it if you need to retry.
3. Adjust the lashes with your fingers. Gently poke the lashes downward until they sit right at your lash line to blend them in. If the lashes are too long for your eyes, take them off and trim them before putting them back on.^[15]
   
   
   • If your lashes are peeling up in the inner corner, they’re probably too long.
4. Remove the lashes by peeling them off your lash line. At the end of the day, just take your lashes off by pulling them up by the inner corner. Self-adhesive lashes are reusable, but they tend to lose their stickiness after the third or fourth use.^[16]
   
   
   • If you notice your lashes coming off throughout the day, try to gently press them back onto your lash line using 1 finger.

[Edit]Tips

• If you like the look of false lashes but you don’t want to apply them every day, consider getting lash extensions.

[Edit]Warnings

• Using homemade lash glues or adhesives can be very dangerous for your eye and eyelid area. You should only use products meant for your lashes to apply falsies.^[17]

[Edit]References

1. ↑ https://www.youtube.com/watch?t=249&v=WnDV3-EFnfk&feature=youtu.be
2. ↑ https://www.youtube.com/watch?t=330&v=1J8U0pGtEl8&feature=youtu.be
3. ↑ https://www.youtube.com/watch?t=336&v=1J8U0pGtEl8&feature=youtu.be
4. ↑ https://www.youtube.com/watch?t=38&v=PvxCvLLWKzY&feature=youtu.be
5. ↑ https://www.youtube.com/watch?t=181&v=6zL1ib7G1NI&feature=youtu.be
6. ↑ https://www.youtube.com/watch?t=335&v=-nXfbKGVI7I&feature=youtu.be
7. ↑ https://www.youtube.com/watch?t=487&v=-nXfbKGVI7I&feature=youtu.be
8. ↑ https://www.youtube.com/watch?t=76&v=1J8U0pGtEl8&feature=youtu.be
9. ↑ https://www.youtube.com/watch?t=71&v=cQfRFdZa1zE&feature=youtu.be
10. ↑ https://www.youtube.com/watch?t=77&v=cQfRFdZa1zE&feature=youtu.be
11. ↑ https://www.youtube.com/watch?t=80&v=1J8U0pGtEl8&feature=youtu.be
12. ↑ https://www.youtube.com/watch?t=145&v=cQfRFdZa1zE&feature=youtu.be
13. ↑ https://www.youtube.com/watch?t=51&v=Bjto7wzUq88&feature=youtu.be
14. ↑ https://www.youtube.com/watch?t=103&v=HqKOyHz09jI&feature=youtu.be
15. ↑ https://www.youtube.com/watch?t=101&v=Bjto7wzUq88&feature=youtu.be
16. ↑ https://www.youtube.com/watch?t=394&v=HqKOyHz09jI&feature=youtu.be
17. ↑ https://www.fda.gov/cosmetics/cosmetic-products/eye-cosmetic-safety

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How to Spot Clean Wool

So, you spilled something on your favorite wool sweater or blanket and now you don’t know what to do? Don’t stress — with the right cleaning solution and some patience, you can get many common types of stains out of wool. Wool is considered “self-cleaning” and is very naturally stain repellant. But, if you do manage to stain some wool, make sure you just spot-clean it rather than washing the whole item, which can damage the wool.

[Edit]Steps

[Edit]Choosing a Cleaning Solution

1. Spot-clean wool only if the item is not labeled dry-clean only. Look on the inside of the collar or elsewhere inside the garment if the item you want to spot clean is clothing. Check for the tag near one of the corners if the item is something like a blanket.^[1]
   
   • If the wool item is dry-clean only, do not try to spot clean it yourself. You may end up ruining the color or otherwise damaging it.
2. Mix equal parts water and rubbing alcohol for alcoholic beverage stains. Stir or shake the liquids together in a container or a bowl. This can work on cocktail, brown liquor, and beer stains, for example.^[2]
   
   • Rubbing alcohol is less commonly known as surgical spirits.
3. Use pure mineral spirits for oily and greasy stains, grass stains, and ink stains. Undiluted mineral spirits work on oily stains from things like butter, cooking oil, and sauces. It also works well for other greasy stains from things like makeup, lipstick, and shoe polish. Finally, it works on tough stains from things like grass and ink.^[3]
   
   • Mineral spirits are also known as white spirits, mineral turpentine, petroleum spirits, and paint thinner.
   • Keep in mind that mineral spirits can cause minor skin irritation after prolonged exposure. Be careful not to get it on your hands when you’re working with it or wear gloves to protect yourself.
4. Combine equal parts rubbing alcohol and white vinegar for coffee stains. Mix the liquids together in a bowl or container. This also works for chocolate and tea stains, but you should treat them with pure mineral spirits first.^[4]
   
   • If the coffee stain is from a coffee that contains milk, treat the stain with undiluted mineral spirits first.
5. Mix 3 parts rubbing alcohol with 1 part water for red wine or fruit juice stains. Combine the liquids in a bowl or a container and stir or shake them together to dilute the rubbing alcohol. This solution works well for stains from fruit-derived products.^[5]
   
   • This also works for stains from fruits themselves, such as if you bit into a ripe red plum and a bit of its juices sprayed onto your nice wool sweater.
6. Treat blood stains with undiluted white vinegar. Vinegar helps break down and dissolve blood stains away. Keep in mind that dried blood is much harder to get out, even with vinegar.^[6]
   
   • Never try to wash blood out with warm or hot water, as this can just cause it to set even more into the wool. It’s better to leave it alone until you can treat it with vinegar.

[Edit]Stain Treatment

1. Scrape off any caked-on substances with the edge of a spoon or butter knife. Gently scrape the edge of the utensil back and forth over the stain to get rid of stuck-on residues from food or other substances. Don’t use anything sharp that could damage the wool.^[7]
   
   • If the stain is just from a liquid, skip this step.
2. Dab fresh stains with a clean, dry paper towel or cloth to soak up excess liquid. Fold the paper towel or cloth up once or twice. Firmly press it against the stain and lift it up. Switch to a clean part of the paper towel or cloth and repeat the process until no more liquid is lifting off the wool.^[8]
   
   • Act as fast as possible if you have a fresh stain on your wool item to make it easier to remove.
3. Test-blot your cleaning solution on an inconspicuous part of the wool. Dip a clean cloth into your chosen cleaning solution and wring out any excess moisture. Gently dab a part of the wool that you can’t normally see to make sure the solution doesn’t damage the color.^[9]
   
   • For example, if you’re spot cleaning a sweater, test the solution on the inside of a sleeve.
   • If the cleaning solution does alter the color of the wool, don’t proceed. Get the wool item dry-cleaned instead.
4. Blot the stain gently with the damp cloth until the stain lifts. Press the cloth soaked in the cleaning solution gently against the stain and lift it up. Repeat this process, dampening the cloth more as needed, until the stain disappears.^[10]
   
   • If you can’t completely lift the stain, feel free to try different cleaning solutions. You might find that a combination of 2-3 different solutions does the trick!
   • All the solutions we listed here are totally safe to use and you don’t have to worry about them reacting with one another in a negative way.
5. Wash items with wool soap and cold water if they are too dirty to spot-clean. Soak the item in a clean tub or bucket full of cold water with a bit of wool detergent. Very gently rub the soapy water into the dirty parts of the item with your hands to help lift stains.^[11]
   
   • It’s typically best to hand-wash wool items instead of machine-washing them because some machine cycles can be rough on the wool. However, if you do want to wash something in a machine, choose the most gentle cycle and only use cold water.

[Edit]Rinsing, Deodorizing, and Drying

1. Blot spot-treated stains with cold water to remove the cleaning solution. Soak a fresh, clean, dry cloth in cold water. Dab the treated area several times to remove any residue from the cleaning solution you used.^[12]
   
   • You can also rinse a spot-treated area by holding that part of the wool under cool running water for a few seconds.
2. Rinse hand-washed items thoroughly with cold water and a splash of vinegar. Fill a bucket or tub with cold water and pour a splash of white vinegar in. Dunk the wool item into the bucket and gently agitate it to rinse out the wool soap. Pour out the water when you see soap suds in it and repeat the process until the water runs clean.^[13]
   
   • If you machine-wash anything on a gentle, cold cycle, instead of washing by hand, the machine automatically does the rinsing for you.
3. Spray wool with 1 part vinegar and 2 parts water if there are any bad odors. Pour the vinegar and water into a spray bottle and shake it to mix them. Mist the whole wool item with the solution to kill odors and freshen it up.^[14]
   
   • You can also do this any time your wool item gets a little musty. It doesn’t have to be only after you spot clean a stain.
4. Hang the item up or lay it flat and let it air dry. Lay heavy clothing items like thick sweaters and jackets flat on a drying rack to avoid misshaping them. Hang up light wool clothing and large items like blankets.^[15]
   
   • Never put wool garments or other items in a drying machine. You’ll surely damage them this way!

[Edit]Tips

• If your wool item has really old or stubborn stains, take it to a professional cleaner.

[Edit]Warnings

• Never attempt to clean a wool item that’s labelled as dry-clean only yourself.

[Edit]Things You’ll Need

• Container or bowl
• Water
• Rubbing alcohol
• White vinegar
• Mineral spirits
• Clean cloths
• Spray bottle

[Edit]References

1. ↑ https://www.countryliving.com/uk/homes-interiors/interiors/advice/a2617/how-to-wash-wool/
2. ↑ https://www.countryliving.com/uk/homes-interiors/interiors/advice/a2617/how-to-wash-wool/
3. ↑ https://www.woolme.co.uk/blog/how-to-remove-stains-from-wool/
4. ↑ https://www.countryliving.com/uk/homes-interiors/interiors/advice/a2617/how-to-wash-wool/
5. ↑ https://www.americanwool.org/wool-101/care-tips/
6. ↑ https://www.countryliving.com/uk/homes-interiors/interiors/advice/a2617/how-to-wash-wool/
7. ↑ https://www.woolme.co.uk/blog/how-to-remove-stains-from-wool/
8. ↑ https://www.woolme.co.uk/blog/how-to-remove-stains-from-wool/
9. ↑ https://www.remodelista.com/posts/expert-advice-how-to-clean-woolen-blankets-5-experts-tips-from-sharktoothnyc/
10. ↑ https://www.countryliving.com/uk/homes-interiors/interiors/advice/a2617/how-to-wash-wool/
11. ↑ https://www.woolme.co.uk/blog/how-to-remove-stains-from-wool/
12. ↑ https://www.countryliving.com/uk/homes-interiors/interiors/advice/a2617/how-to-wash-wool/
13. ↑ https://www.woolme.co.uk/blog/how-to-remove-stains-from-wool/
14. ↑ https://www.remodelista.com/posts/expert-advice-how-to-clean-woolen-blankets-5-experts-tips-from-sharktoothnyc/
15. ↑ https://www.remodelista.com/posts/expert-advice-how-to-clean-woolen-blankets-5-experts-tips-from-sharktoothnyc/

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How to Become a Hotel Receptionist

The hotel receptionist's role is vital, as they are essentially the face of the organization, being customer-facing and in charge of booking reservations. Gaining office administration experience and maintaining a professional attitude can help you to land a job as a hotel receptionist. Take hospitality courses and learn a new language to impress future employers, and show potential bosses that you will provide excellent customer service by maintaining a network of contacts who can refer to your skills.

[Edit]Steps

[Edit]Learning About the Role

1. Understand the job description. While job duties will vary from hotel to hotel, there are certain responsibilities that all hotel receptionists are required to manage. These include handling reservations and cancellations, processing payments, answering guests' questions, taking messages, and answering the phone.^[1]
   
   • This role requires you to be able to stay calm during stressful situations. Practice both your patience and your negotiating skills.
2. Prepare to work a variety of shifts. Working as a hotel receptionist will require you to work days, nights, weekends, and sometimes overnight. Be prepared to keep a flexible schedule.^[2]
   
3. Get a well-balanced education. A minimum of a high school diploma will be required, and some college courses or a degree in hospitality will also help you to become a hotel receptionist. Learning a second language, especially one used by tourists in the location that you wish to work in, can be advantageous.^[3]
   
   • Take English and communications classes that will provide you with the ability to communicate effectively both verbally and in writing.
   • Take math and finance classes so that you are prepared to handle payments and money.
   • Look for opportunities to take hospitality courses. Many community colleges and online schools offer classes in travel, tourism, and hotel management.

[Edit]Gaining Experience

1. Obtain experience in office and front desk functions. Work as a receptionist or an office assistant in a professional setting. This will help you learn skills required of a hotel receptionist.^[4]
   
   • Getting experience managing a front desk can make you a valuable candidate for hire. Remain on good terms with former employers so that they can provide you with a recommendation.
   • Answer phones, greet customers, organize paper and computer files, and get experience managing multiple administrative functions.
   • Maintain a network of contacts. Stay in contact with higher-ups and terminate your employment on good terms with your employer so that they can give you a personal reference when you ultimately apply to a hotel receptionist role.
2. Sharpen your customer service skills. Working as a clerk in a retail setting, or a call center will give you the customer service experience that you need to become a hotel receptionist.^[5]
   
   • Provide answers to questions, resolve complaints, and maintain a cheerful, positive and professional attitude when dealing with customers.
3. Learn various types of computer software. Stay up-to-date with technology, since you may need to learn new computer programs quickly. Many hotels will use specific databases and online reservation systems. Master a variety of programs so that you can be prepared for any software scenario.^[6]
   
   • Learn how to use the Microsoft Office suite, including Word, Excel, Access and Outlook. Become familiar with creating a spreadsheet of data, as data entry will be a key part of your job.^[7]
4. Put together a resume that reflects your education and experience. Make sure that you have an objective section, which highlights your goal of becoming a hotel receptionist. Emphasize your strengths and any relevant skills. Use a sample resume to format the document correctly.^[8]
   
   • Be sure to proofread your document for spelling errors and be sure to use professional language throughout.

[Edit]Finding a Job

1. Look for job opportunities. Check online job search websites such as CareerBuilder, Monster and Indeed. You can perform a search using specific keywords such as "hotel receptionist" and choosing the city or state you want to work in.
   
2. Call hotels in your area. Call the front desk and ask whether they are hiring a receptionist. You may instead want to visit in person so that employees will be able to connect your face with your name.^[9]
   
   • Drop off your resume at local hotels where you would like to work. Ask to speak to the manager and introduce yourself. This will give you a chance to demonstrate your professional and positive attitude.
3. Apply for the job. Once you find a job, send a resume and a cover letter to the hiring manager. Your cover letter should express why you are interested in the receptionist role, and which assets you have that you would bring to the role. If you have previous experience working as an administrative assistant or receptionist, be sure to mention that in the cover letter.^[10]
   
   • Keep your cover letter limited to one typed page, as the employer has to read through many applications. Use positive and energetic language to convey your personality throughout.
4. Interview for the role. Wear professional clothes, and take note of what their current receptionist wears in order to maintain a consistent look. Hotels value their branding, so if the hotel uses specific colors in their logo and branding, wear those colors to the interview. Be prepared to answer questions about your past experiences and your future goals with the company.
   
   • Following the interview, send an email thanking the interviewer for taking the time to meet with you. Hopefully, you will hear back within a week or two with news that you got the job.

[Edit]Tips

• Learn a foreign language. Being able to communicate with international guests will help you get a job as a hotel receptionist.
• Talk to hotel receptionists about their jobs. A professional will be able to tell you about their daily work, and can give you some advice on how to become a hotel receptionist, and what skills and strengths you will need to develop.

[Edit]Related wikiHows

• Work at a Hotel
• Survive a Hotel Fire
• Check Into a Hotel

[Edit]References

[Edit]Quick Summary

1. ↑ https://nationalcareersservice.direct.gov.uk/job-profiles/hotel-receptionist
2. ↑ http://www.inputyouth.co.uk/jobguides/job-hotelreceptionist.html
3. ↑ https://nationalcareersservice.direct.gov.uk/job-profiles/hotel-receptionist
4. ↑ http://www.careeraddict.com/become-a-hotel-receptionist
5. ↑ https://nationalcareersservice.direct.gov.uk/job-profiles/receptionist
6. ↑ https://www.hcareers.com/article/career-advice/a-day-in-the-life-of-a-hotel-receptionist
7. ↑ https://www.wikihow.com/Use-Excel
8. ↑ https://www.wikihow.com/Make-a-Resume
9. ↑ https://www.myworldofwork.co.uk/my-career-options/hotel-receptionist
10. ↑ https://www.thebalance.com/best-ways-to-apply-for-jobs-2061599

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How to Pack Boxes for Moving

While the prospect of moving into a new home is usually exciting, the thought of packing everything you own into boxes probably isn’t. Fortunately, with a little organization and lots of boxes, you can get the job done efficiently. Just keep in mind that extra care and protection will be needed for valuable and fragile objects.

[Edit]Steps

[Edit]Getting Boxes and Sorting Items

1. Get various sizes of sturdy moving boxes based on your home’s floor area. For the best results, pick new or lightly-used moving boxes—not just run-of-the-mill cardboard boxes—with a sturdy double-wall construction and no rips, tears, or stains. You can buy new moving boxes from a home improvement retailer, moving company, or office supply store. To figure out how many moving boxes of each size—small, medium, large, and extra large—to get, use your current home’s floor area (in square feet or square meters).^[1]
   
   • If the area of your home is , estimate 15 small boxes, 13 medium boxes, 6 large boxes, and 3 extra large boxes.
   • If the area is , estimate 21 small, 19 medium, 10 large, and 6 extra large boxes.
   • If the area is , estimate 30 small, 29 medium, 15 large, and 9 extra large boxes.
   • If the area is , estimate 35 small, 33 medium, 19 large, and 11 extra large boxes.
   • Do not risk having your stuff fall out because you used heavily-worn, flimsy, or damaged boxes. A moving company may refuse to load any boxes that are ripped, torn, or stained.
2. Set aside important stuff to pack in a “need right away” box. Collect items from around your home that you’ll want to access immediately upon arrival at your new place. Your pile might include a few days' worth of towels, toiletries, clothes, and cleaning supplies, for example.^[2]
   
   • Consider this box a type of "overnight bag." Make it one of the last boxes you put on the truck so that you can easily find it and use it when you arrive.
3. Divide your stuff into fragile and non-fragile groupings. Some people prefer to work room-by-room, while others like to make a single sorting and packing center. Either way, start by separating breakable (fragile) things from non-fragile items so the breakable stuff can be packed into specific fragile item boxes.^[3]
   
   • If you haven’t already gone through your stuff and gotten rid of things you don’t want to pack up, do so now. Get rid of as much clutter as possible before you start packing.
4. Group similar fragile items together and do the same with non-fragile stuff. Working either room-by-room or in a central location, group all your books together, all your stereo equipment together, all your office supplies together, and so on. Other than fragile/non-fragile, there’s no clear definition of “similar” here: group things together based on a combination of size, shape, sturdiness, function, and existing or intended location.^[4]
   
5. Set aside bigger boxes for lighter objects and smaller boxes for heavier stuff. Resist the urge to fill a large or extra large moving box with books or other heavy things. The boxes will fall apart, be too heavy to move, or both. Instead, set aside your small and medium boxes for heavier items and your large and extra large boxes for lighter stuff.^[5]
   
   • New, undamaged moving boxes are rated to hold at least , but it’s best to aim for around or less per box.^[6]
6. Unfold and tape the bottoms of flattened boxes so you can fill them. With a folded box flat in front of you, push in on the creased sides to unfold it into a square. Put the box upside-down so the bottom flaps are up. Fold the 2 smaller flaps over, then fold the 2 larger flaps over the smaller ones. Stretch a long piece of packing tape along the crease where the flaps meet, running the strip of tape at least up the sides of the box as well. Add 2 more strips of tape over the first strip and the crease, but offset them slightly so that one is to the right and one is to the left.
   
   • Press down on the tape to make sure it’s firmly in place.
   • 3 strips of good quality packing tape should be plenty. If adding even more tape gives you extra peace of mind, do one or both of the following: run 2 strips along the side seams of the box’s bottom, creating an H-shape; run 2 strips of tape from corner to corner in an X pattern.

[Edit]Packing Non-Breakable Items

1. Keep the weight of each box at or below for the best results. Standard cardboard moving boxes of any size can hold or more. However, the heavier a box is, the harder it is to handle and the more likely it is to be dropped. Before you start filling a box, estimate the weight of the stuff you plan to put in it, then make any packing rearrangements as needed.^[7]
   
   • While professional movers are typically better at handling heavy boxes, it’s still best not to go over about per box.
2. Fold or roll clothing, linens, and bedding to pack in designated boxes. You might end up packing much of your clothing and linens in suitcases or duffel bags, or just leaving them in their existing dresser drawers. Sort everything that’s going into moving boxes by type or function—bath towels, summer clothes, socks and underwear, etc.—and either fold or roll everything up. Nestle your stuff into the designated boxes without mashing or squashing it too much—especially if there are items you don’t want all wrinkled!^[8]
   
   • To pack items on hangers in boxes, buy special wardrobe boxes that have built-in hanging rails. You can get these anywhere moving boxes are sold.
   • While it’s tempting to use clothing and linens as padding material, it’s best to use functional padding like packing peanuts, bubble wrap, and crumpled packing paper instead.
   • If you’re worried about your clothes and linens getting dirty or stained, line the insides of the boxes with packing paper, butcher paper, or craft paper.
   • Put pillows in vacuum-sealing bags if you need to reduce the amount of space they take up.
3. Put small and miscellaneous non-fragile stuff in clear zip-close bags. Instead of just tossing the contents of your desk drawer into a moving box, put your office supplies in labeled bags that you can then pack in the box. Do the same with cords, small tools, and other small items. It’s also okay to have a bag or two dedicated to small miscellaneous stuff that really doesn’t fit into any category.^[9]
   
   • Since you can see what’s in them, labeling the bags is optional. Doing so may help you remember what goes with what, though. For example, if you have screws and bolts for mounting your computer monitor, label the bag "monitor hardware."
4. Wrap solid non-fragile items individually in paper. It may seem like overkill to wrap sturdy items individually, but it’s the best way to protect all of your stuff from breakage, scratches, tears, stains, or other damage. Wrap each item in one or more layers of packing paper, butcher paper, craft paper, tissue paper, or paper towels. Newspaper also works, but keep in mind that the ink can bleed onto clothing, books, or glass.^[10]
   
   • It's better to use too much packing paper than not enough!^[11]
5. Line boxes for solid items with a single layer of packing peanuts. Skip this step for clothing, linens, and bedding. For solid but non-fragile stuff, add just enough packing peanuts to cover the bottom of the box. As an alternative to packing peanuts, crumple sheets of paper into balls and line the bottom.^[12]
   
   • Buy bags of packing peanuts or paper at an office supply store, post office, or hardware store.
6. Put heavier stuff in first and fill in all the gaps as you go. Nestle the biggest and heaviest items intended for that box on top of the packing peanuts, then fit smaller items into any spaces between or around them. Don’t forcefully wedge anything into place, though—nestle things in where they fit. Fill remaining voids with handfuls of packing peanuts or crumpled paper as you go, until you’re about from the top. Add a layer of packing peanuts or crumpled paper to top off the box.^[13]
   
   • For example, place a few recipe books on the bottom, put a kettle and toaster on top of them, and then add bags of fridge magnets and spatulas to finish things off.
   • Don’t leave any substantial empty voids in the box. Otherwise, the box could cave in when you stack other boxes on top of it.^[14]
7. Secure the box top with packing tape to prevent it from spilling. Close the smaller flaps of the box top down, then close the larger flaps over them. Run a strip of packing tape over the seam between the closed flaps, making sure the strip runs down the sides of the box at least ^[15]
   
   • Don’t use masking tape to seal the top of the box, and definitely not to seal the bottom! Duct tape is also a poor choice, despite its strength, because it doesn’t stick to cardboard as well as does packing tape.
8. Label the box on 2 opposite sides after you fill it. Clearly write what the box contains and which room it will go to in your new home. You can write directly on the box with a permanent marker, or use securely-adhered stickers if you want to reuse the box. Write your full name as well, especially if you’re using movers.^[16]
   
   • For example, you might write “books, living room” or "toys, Maddie's room."
   • If the box contains random items, write "misc." or "miscellaneous." For example, "misc. kitchen supplies."
   • Draw arrows pointing to the top of the box to indicate which side is up. This will ensure that the heavier objects stay on the bottom.

[Edit]Boxing Up Fragile Objects

1. Use smaller boxes and keep the weight well under . Smaller boxes are easier to handle and are less likely to be dropped and damaged. Keep the boxes lighter than you would a box of the same size with non-fragile items inside; instead of , reduce the packed weight to around or less if possible.^[17]
   
   • When getting moving boxes, consider picking up a few specialty boxes for fragile items that have, for instance, cardboard separators inside them. That said, it’s definitely possible to safely pack fragile items in standard moving boxes.
2. Line the bottom of the box with packing peanuts or tightly crumpled paper. Instead of adding a single layer of packing peanuts like you would with non-fragile items, make the layer in the bottom of the box at least deep. If you’re using paper instead of packing peanuts, crumple it tightly into balls to provide better protection for your stuff.^[18]
   
   • As another alternative, line the bottom of the box with multiple layers of bubble wrap until it’s at least thick.
3. Wrap each fragile item in bubble wrap, packing paper, or its original box. If you have the box—with the interior padding—that the item came in, use it.^[19] Otherwise, bubble wrap is better for thin, delicate objects like plates, china, or lamps. Packing paper is better for slightly sturdier objects like picture frames or lamp shades. Wrap each item completely, taping down the edges securely so the wrapping doesn’t unravel.^[20]
   
   • For items that are hollow in the middle, like glasses, mugs, and vases, stuff a wad of crumpled paper inside.
   • Do not use clothing or towels to wrap fragile items. These are not secure enough to prevent breakage.
4. Pack flat items vertically and limit stacking in general. Don’t, for instance, stack individually-wrapped plates or picture frames in the box. Instead, slide them in vertically and use extra cushioning from packing peanuts or crumpled paper to keep them upright and secure. Items like mugs and glasses should be packed upside-down, but don’t stack them one right over the other. Rather, cut sheets of cardboard to make platforms upon which to set each layer of wrapped mugs or glasses, and fill in all gaps with packing material.^[21]
   
   • As with non-fragile packing, put heavier items in the box first. A heavier fragile object should never be pressing down directly on a lighter one.
5. Fill all gaps and the top of the box with packing material. Use as much as packing material as you need to fill in all of the empty spaces. You do not want fragile items shifting around in the box. Leave at least at the top of the box to fill with packing peanuts, crumpled paper, or bubble wrap.^[22]
   
   • The box should be full but not bulging at the edges. Don't overstuff boxes with fragile items.
6. Tape the completely-filled box with a strip of packing tape. Fold down the smaller flaps, then the larger flaps. Run a strip of tape over the seam between the flaps and at least down each side of the box.^[23]
   
   • If you’re not 100% sure you packed the items securely enough, try this test: pick up the box and very gently rock it back and forth like a sleeping baby. If you feel any movement inside the box, you haven’t used enough packing material inside!
7. Write “fragile” on all 4 sides of the box. Use a broad, dark marker to write this in large letters. Include the contents of the box as well; for instance, “FRAGILE—plates” or “FRAGILE—sofa lamps.” Draw arrows onto the box to clearly indicate which side is up.^[24]
   
   • When packing the truck, make sure that heavier objects are not placed on top of this box.

[Edit]Tips

• Declutter your home about 3 weeks before your move by getting rid of things you don’t need. Finalize your packing plan and start packing right after that so you have lots of time to get the job done. Aim to finish packing the night before moving day.^[25]
• Consider putting Styrofoam plates in between breakable dishware for added padding.
• Cover liquid containers (like shampoo or detergent bottles) in bubble or plastic wrap instead of paper, then seal them in zip-close bags.^[26]

[Edit]Warnings

• If you fill a large box with heavy items, it will be too hard to move and may break apart. Put objects like books, computer parts, or tools in smaller boxes to help move them more efficiently. Large boxes are good for light items like blankets, clothing, or stuffed animals.^[27]
• Don’t pack furniture and major appliances. These should be wrapped in padded moving blankets. You can get these from a package store or a hardware store. If you hired a mover, they may do this for you.^[28]

[Edit]Things You’ll Need

• Boxes
• Packing peanuts
• Packing paper
• Bubble wrap
• Packing tape
• Masking tape
• Permanent marker

[Edit]References

__

1. ↑ https://www.movinglabor.com/blog/how-many-moving-boxes-do-i-need
2. ↑ http://www.denverpost.com/2013/08/30/home-design-pack-fast-move-fast-with-these-12-tips/
3. ↑ https://www.moving.com/tips/how-to-pack-for-a-move/
4. ↑ https://www.moving.com/tips/how-to-pack-for-a-move/
5. ↑ http://www.denverpost.com/2013/08/30/home-design-pack-fast-move-fast-with-these-12-tips/
6. ↑ https://www.lifestorage.com/blog/moving/moving-boxes-tips/
7. ↑ https://www.lifestorage.com/blog/moving/moving-boxes-tips/
8. ↑ https://www.moving.com/tips/whats-the-best-way-to-pack-your-clothes/
9. ↑ https://www.moving.com/tips/how-to-pack-for-a-move/
10. ↑ https://www.moving.com/tips/how-to-pack-for-a-move/
11. ↑ [v161238_b01]. 14 January 2020.
12. ↑ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ckz0FgS3q6I&feature=youtu.be&t=31
13. ↑ https://www.consumeraffairs.com/movers/how-to-pack-for-move.html
14. ↑ [v161238_b01]. 14 January 2020.
15. ↑ https://www.angieslist.com/articles/how-to-pack-moving-box.htm
16. ↑ http://www.denverpost.com/2013/08/30/home-design-pack-fast-move-fast-with-these-12-tips/
17. ↑ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ckz0FgS3q6I&feature=youtu.be&t=21
18. ↑ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ckz0FgS3q6I&feature=youtu.be&t=31
19. ↑ https://www.moving.com/tips/how-to-pack-for-a-move/
20. ↑ https://www.youmoveme.com/us/blog/four-easy-tips-for-packing-fragile-items
21. ↑ https://www.youmoveme.com/us/blog/four-easy-tips-for-packing-fragile-items
22. ↑ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ckz0FgS3q6I&feature=youtu.be&t=31
23. ↑ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ckz0FgS3q6I&feature=youtu.be&t=51
24. ↑ https://www.lifestorage.com/blog/moving/moving-boxes-tips/
25. ↑ http://www.denverpost.com/2013/08/30/home-design-pack-fast-move-fast-with-these-12-tips/
26. ↑ https://www.moving.com/tips/how-to-pack-for-a-move/
27. ↑ http://www.denverpost.com/2013/08/30/home-design-pack-fast-move-fast-with-these-12-tips/
28. ↑ https://www.moving.com/tips/how-to-pack-for-a-move/

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