Friday, June 30, 2023

How to Make Your Mascara Look Great

If you're tired of thin, barely there lashes or clumpy, spidery lashes, it may be time to rethink how you apply your mascara. Making your mascara look great starts with using the right type, but it's also important to prepare your lashes in the right way and know the proper techniques for applying mascara to achieve maximum impact. Once you pick up a few quick tips, you can have long, thick, fluttery lashes without falsies everyday.

[Edit]Steps

[Edit]Finding the Right Mascara

  1. Choose the right mascara formula. The first step in making your mascara look great is making sure to use the right formula. Mascaras are designed to do different things for your lashes, so if you use a lengthening mascara when you want thicker-looking lashes, you’ll probably be disappointed. Check to make sure that the formula you’re using meets your needs.[1]
    Make Your Mascara Look Great Step 1.jpeg
    • A lengthening or defining mascara is meant to help your lashes look longer.
    • A volumizing or thickening mascara is meant to help your lashes look thicker.
    • A curling mascara is meant to help lift and bend straight lashes.
    • A tubing mascara contains special polymers that form tubes around your lashes that make them longer and thicker.
    • A fiber mascara contain fiber filaments that adhere to your natural lashes so they appear thicker and longer.
    • Some mascara formulas are designed to lengthen and thicken for an overall improved look for the lashes. If you’re not sure what you want out of mascara, opt for this type of multipurpose formula.
    • Depending on your needs, you may want to use a combination of mascaras in different formulas. For example, you may do a first coat with a volumizing mascara and then add a second coat of a lengthening mascara to separate and define your lashes.
  2. Consider the mascara’s brush or wand. In addition to the mascara formula itself, the type of brush or wand that a mascara has makes a big difference in the finished look of your lashes. Some brushes feature nylon bristles, while others are made of molded plastic. The shape and layout of the brush affects how the mascara is applied as well. Work with a brush or wand that suits your needs.[2]
    Make Your Mascara Look Great Step 2.jpeg
    • For thick, fluttery lashes, look for a mascara with a brush that is thick and densely bristled.
    • For long, defined lashes, look for a mascara with a brush that has sparse, short bristles.
    • For the lower lashes, choose a mascara with a small brush head.
  3. Opt for a waterproof formula. If you want to ensure that your mascara looks great all day, it’s important to use a waterproof version. It holds up well to tears, sweat, and any other kind of moisture, and also helps lock the curl into your lashes. Use a waterproof mascara so you don’t have to worry about running, smudging, or flaking beneath the eyes.[3]
    Make Your Mascara Look Great Step 3.jpeg
    • The drawback to waterproof mascara is that it can be tough to remove. Make sure that you have a waterproof eye makeup remover on hand to take it off at the end of the day.
    • If you wear contacts or have sensitive eyes, be sure that your mascara is also hypoallergenic so you don’t have to worry about the formula irritating your eyes.
  4. Keep your mascara fresh. Like all makeup, mascara can actually go bad over time. An old mascara can not only cause eye irritations and infections, but it can make your lashes look clumpy. That’s because mascara dries out as it gets old so it can become thick and crusty. Make sure the mascara that you’re using is less than 3 months old.
    Make Your Mascara Look Great Step 4.jpeg
    • If you have multiple tubes of mascara and it’s difficult to keep track of how old they are, consider putting labels on them. Write the date that you opened the tube on the label, and stick it on the mascara so you’ll know when your 3 months are up.
  5. Use a black mascara. For the best, most intense look, you should use a black mascara. It does the best job of making lashes look thicker and longer, so be sure to choose the blackest mascara you can find. Save colored mascaras, such as blue, purple, or green, for adding a fun pop of color to your lower lashes.[4]
    Make Your Mascara Look Great Step 5.jpeg
    • If you have extremely fair skin, you may prefer to use a black brown mascara so it doesn’t look as harsh.

[Edit]Preparing Your Lashes

  1. Condition your lashes nightly. For your mascara to look as good as possible, you must start with soft, healthy lashes. You can purchase a lash conditioner product that helps moisturize your lashes. Apply it nightly after you’ve removed all of your mascara and other eye makeup to wake up with healthy lashes.[5]
    Make Your Mascara Look Great Step 6.jpeg
    • If you don’t want to purchase a specialty lash conditioner, you can use petroleum jelly, vitamin E, or coconut oil. Dip a clean spoolie into one of them, and coat your lashes before going to bed.
  2. Curl your lashes before applying mascara. Your mascara will look better if your lashes are curled. That’s because curling your lashes lifts them and helps them look a little fuller. However, it’s important to use your lash curler before you apply mascara. If your lashes are wet, they can stick to the curler and you may pull some out while you’re curling.[6]
    Make Your Mascara Look Great Step 7.jpeg
    • If you don’t have an eyelash curler or aren’t comfortable using one, you can apply your mascara first. When your lashes are still wet, gently push them upward to create and curl. Hold them like that for 10 to 15 seconds.
  3. Start with a lash primer. After curling your lashes, it helps to apply a lash primer before using your mascara. A primer conditions and coats the lashes so they appear thicker and longer. They’ll also provide a base for the mascara to cling to.[7]
    Make Your Mascara Look Great Step 8.jpeg

[Edit]Applying Your Mascara

  1. Blot the mascara wand. When you pull the mascara wand out of the tube, it will be loaded with product. If you apply it to your lashes right away, your lashes may look clumpy. Instead, wipe the wand off on a tissue or napkin to remove the excess mascara.[8]
    Make Your Mascara Look Great Step 9.jpeg
    • If you don’t have a tissue handy, try wiping the wand off on the side of the tube’s opening.
  2. Wiggle the wand back and forth at the base of the lashes. When you’re ready to apply the mascara, start by holding the brush right at the root of your lashes. Gently wiggle it back and forth to ensure that you apply a generous coat at the root.[9]
    Make Your Mascara Look Great Step 10.jpeg
    • Make sure to wiggle the brush left to right rather than up and down for the best looking lashes.
  3. Use a zigzag motion to cover your lashes. After you’ve applied mascara to the base of your lashes, move the wand in a zigzag motion from the roots to the tips of your lashes. This technique creates a more fluttery look for your lashes.[10]
    Make Your Mascara Look Great Step 11.jpeg
    • For your lower lashes, hold the wand vertically so you can coat each lash individually.
  4. Comb through your lashes after applying the mascara. Once you’ve applied the first coat of mascara, allow your lashes to dry for 3 to 5 seconds. Next, take a clean lash comb and run through your lashes to remove any clumps and fan out your lashes.[11]
    Make Your Mascara Look Great Step 12.jpeg
    • If you don’t have a lash brush or comb, you can use a clean toothbrush or disposable spoolie to comb through your lashes.
  5. Add additional coats if necessary. If your lashes don’t appear as long or thick as you’d like after your first coat of mascara, apply additional coats. Keep in mind that the more mascara you add, the more likely your lashes are to clump so don’t overload on mascara.[12]
    Make Your Mascara Look Great Step 13.jpeg
    • Be sure to comb your lashes after each coat of mascara that you apply to avoid clumps.


[Edit]Tips

  • Apply other eye makeup, such as eye shadow and liner, before you apply your mascara.
  • If you’re worried about getting mascara on your eyelid, hold a business card over your eyelid, just above your lashes, as you apply it. Any smudges that you might make will happen on the card, not your eyelid.
  • If you do get mascara on your eyelid, carefully spin the tip of cotton swab on the spot to remove the mascara without disturbing your other eye makeup.
  • Don’t pump your mascara wand in and out of the tube. That introduces air into the bottle, which will dry your mascara out faster.

[Edit]Things You’ll Need

  • Mascara in your chosen formula
  • Lash conditioner
  • An eyelash curler
  • Lash primer
  • A lash comb or brush

[Edit]Related wikiHows

[Edit]References



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How to Create Airflow in a Room

Beat the heat and circulate fresh air with this handy guide

During the summer months, it can be hard to cool down if you don't have—or don't want to spend money on—air conditioning. Even if you do have AC, sometimes it's nice to get a little fresh air moving in a stuffy room. In this article, we'll be sharing super simple tips to help you create airflow and bring in a breeze. We'll also touch on how to make slight changes to your room or building so you can stay cool all summer long.

[Edit]Things You Should Know

  • Open the door or window for an easy way to increase airflow. Use ceiling fans or box fans to improve the flow even more.
  • To create a cross-breeze, put a box fan in an open window facing inward. Then, put a second box fan in another window across the room facing outside.
  • If you're creating a cross-breeze, add an extra box fan in the center of the room to improve air circulation even more.

[Edit]Steps

[Edit]Using Simple Solutions

  1. Open the door for a quick and easy way to increase airflow. If you can, prop open a door so the warm air that's building up in your room can flow out. This also helps to balance and regulate the temperature around your house.[1][2]
    Create Airflow in a Room Step 1 Version 2.jpg
    • If the room has multiple doors, prop them all open to increase air flow.
  2. Open a window if you want to keep your door closed. Opening the window will help get air moving. If you already have air blowing into the room from your A/C, opening a window will help draw it out, creating airflow and better circulation. You can do this with a closed door, as long as you have air blowing in from the A/C.[3]
    Create Airflow in a Room Step 2 Version 2.jpg
    • You only need to open the window in order to start drawing the hot air out of the room!
  3. Use ceiling and box fans to generate circulation. If you don't have an air conditioner, purchase a simple box fan or install a ceiling fan for a cost-effective way to circulate air.[4] Using fans while the windows and doors are open will get air moving even faster.
    Create Airflow in a Room Step 3 Version 2.jpg
    • Use a dehumidifier if the air feels and moist stuffy.[5]
    • If you're in the bathroom or kitchen, turn on the exhaust fan to get air moving. In the kitchen, you can also turn on the range hood fan (if you have one).
  4. Make sure the air conditioning vent is open if you have A/C. An air conditioner can help create airflow even if you don't want to set it to "cool." Just make sure the vent is open and set it to fan mode so air circulates throughout the room.[6]
    Create Airflow in a Room Step 4 Version 2.jpg
    • If you don't have an A/C, consider buying a window A/C unit or a portable A/C unit, especially if you live in a hot climate. Portable A/C units work great in windowless rooms.
    • If you do have an A/C, schedule HVAC maintenance once a year and get your air ducts cleaned every 2-3 years, or as needed.[7]

[Edit]Creating Cross Ventilation

  1. Place a box fan in a window facing inward. Install the box so that it faces inside the room and pushes cooler air into the space. Then, close the window as much as possible after you place the box fan in the window to hold it in place.[8]
    Create Airflow in a Room Step 5 Version 2.jpg
  2. Place a second box fan in a window across the room facing outside. Put the second fan in a higher window if possible, since hot air rises, and set it to blow outwards. Then, just pull the window down to the top of the fan so it stays in place.[9]
    Create Airflow in a Room Step 6 Version 2.jpg
    • This process creates a vacuum, drawing air through the room and cooling it down.
  3. Use reversible fans. Reversible fans give you the option of turning the fans around with little to no heavy lifting, so that you can have the coolest room possible.[10]
    Create Airflow in a Room Step 7 Version 2.jpg
  4. Add extra box fans in the middle of a large room. If the space is large, encourage air movement by placing another box fan in the middle of the room. Orient this fan so it's blowing towards the fan facing outward to encourage the air to go out.[11]
    Create Airflow in a Room Step 8 Version 2.jpg

[Edit]Modifying the Room or Building

  1. Cut a opening in the door. A small hole in your door can create airflow and cool down the room. You can leave the door as-is or insert a transfer grill to make the cut less obvious.[12]
    Create Airflow in a Room Step 9 Version 2.jpg
  2. Install a return duct. Return ducts push air back to the air conditioner so it can be recycled. This increases airflow because it gives the cool air coming into the room somewhere to go.[13]
    Create Airflow in a Room Step 10 Version 2.jpg
    • If you don't already have these in your home, they can be expensive to install.
    • One basic way to create return air ducts is to cut a hole in the floor in the wall cavity. Connect it to the room and the return air with metal sheeting.
  3. Use jump ducts to allow air flow in and out of the room. Jump ducts are u-shaped tunnels that create the same effect as leaving the door open, as they allow air to flow back out of the room when it comes in through the A/C vent. For best results, install jump ducts in the attic. To install:[14]
    Create Airflow in a Room Step 11 Version 2.jpg
    • Cut holes in the ceiling drywall.
    • Place the jump duct above the rooms, and connect the registers on the duct to the beams.
    • Seal the registers to the drywall using caulk. Then, seal the registers to the duct using the approved ties and metal tape.
    • In the rooms, place a ceiling grill under the duct.

[Edit]Video

[Edit]References

[Edit]Quick Summary



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How to Identify a Brown Recluse

Learn if a spider is a brown recluse and what to do if you're bitten

These shy little spiders are most known by their dark-brown violin markings, which is why they're also called "fiddle-back" or "violin" spiders. Although many people are afraid of them and they have a bad reputation, brown recluse bites are actually very rare. While they are venomous, they usually only pose a serious risk to children or elderly people with pre-existing health conditions.[1] Read on to learn everything you need to know about brown recluses, including what you should do if you think you've been bitten by one.

[Edit]Things You Should Know

  • Brown recluses are small spiders with light-brown bodies and legs, 6 eyes, and fine hair on their legs.
  • True to their name, brown recluses favor sheltered, out-of-the-way places and typically aren't out in plain sight.
  • Brown recluse spiders are native to the southeastern and midwest United States. If you live elsewhere, the spider is likely not a brown recluse.

[Edit]Steps

[Edit]Identification Chart

[Edit]Features of a Brown Recluse

  1. Light-brown body and legs{endbold}
    The brown recluse is a solid light-brown color, typically similar to dirt or sand. Apart from the violin marking behind their heads, these spiders don't have any variation in color on either their bodies or their legs, including their undersides.[2]
    Identify a Brown Recluse Step 1 Version 3.jpg
    • If the spider has stripes or other markings on its body or legs, it's not a brown recluse.
    • Spiders with darker abdomens or several different colors on their bodies also aren't brown recluses. For example, huntsman spiders and funnel weavers are often mistaken for brown recluses, but they have different colors on their bodies and legs.[3]
  2. Violin marking{endbold}
    This dark brown marking appears on the brown recluse's cephalothorax—typically people will just refer to this as the spider's back, although that's not completely accurate. The neck of the violin points toward the spider's body. The shape isn't always super well-defined, though, so it can be hard to spot.[4]
    Identify a Brown Recluse Step 2 Version 3.jpg
    • Other types of spiders have similar markings, so this alone isn't enough to guarantee you're looking at a brown recluse.
  3. Six eyes{endbold}
    The brown recluse's unique eye configuration is usually an easier way to identify them than other markings. While most spiders have 8 eyes, a brown recluse has only 6, arranged in 3 pairs—one directly in the center of their head with the other 2 pairs on either side.[5]
    Identify a Brown Recluse Step 3 Version 3.jpg
    • The eyes are so small it can be difficult to actually see them without a magnifying glass. If you're going to hold a magnifying glass up to a live spider, be careful!
    • A woodlouse spider also has 6 eyes, but they're in a different configuration. Woodlouse spiders tend to be reddish with a dark-reddish brown front half, pale back half, and gray abdomen.[6]
  4. Fine hair{endbold}
    Most spiders have spines on their legs, but brown recluses have only fine hairs. If you see spines, you're definitely looking at a different species of spider.[7]
    Identify a Brown Recluse Step 4 Version 3.jpg
  5. Small size{endbold}
    A brown recluse's body doesn't grow much bigger than with its legs extended. If you've got a big, scary-looking spider, it's probably not a brown recluse. These small spiders can sit comfortably on the head of a US quarter, including their legs.[8]
    Identify a Brown Recluse Step 5 Version 3.jpg

[Edit]Brown Recluse Habitat

  1. Southeastern and midwest United States{endbold}
    Brown recluse spiders live primarily in 16 US states: Alabama, Arkansas, Georgia, Illinois, Indiana, Iowa, Kansas, Kentucky, Louisiana, Mississippi, Missouri, Nebraska, Ohio, Oklahoma, Tennessee, and Texas. If you don't live in these areas, chances are you'll never encounter a brown recluse spider.[9]
    Identify a Brown Recluse Step 6 Version 4.jpg
    • Brown recluse spiders have been found in large cities outside these areas, likely because they were hiding in something that was moved there.[10]
  2. Dry, hidden spaces{endbold}
    These spiders are called "recluses" because they tend to favor out-of-the-way places where they won't be disturbed. Generally, they're just not really interested in people and try to stay out of your way. Look for them in:[11]
    Identify a Brown Recluse Step 7 Version 3.jpg
    • Attics
    • Dry basements
    • Closets
    • Sheds or barns
    • Woodpiles[12]
    • Shoes
    • Boxes of stored items
  3. Loose, sticky webs{endbold}
    Brown recluse spiders don't use their webs to catch prey—they go out hunting at night. Their webs are flat retreats in the bottom of boxes or corners, constructed to protect the spider and their young. The loose strands of the web are sticky to the touch and usually off-white or grayish in color.[13]
    Identify a Brown Recluse Step 8 Version 3.jpg

[Edit]Treating a Brown Recluse Bite

  1. Wash the bite area immediately upon discovery. A brown recluse bite isn't going to hurt. In fact, it can take up to 8 hours before you even realize you were bitten at all. When you notice a bite, clean it carefully with soap and warm water.[14]
    Identify a Brown Recluse Step 9 Version 3.jpg
    • The area around the bite might become red or swollen within 3-8 hours after the bite. You might also feel a burning sensation.
    • Apply an ice pack or cold compress to the site for 10 minutes to reduce swelling.
  2. Seek medical treatment as soon as possible. When in doubt, call your doctor about any painful or swollen bite. Even if it's not a brown recluse bite, prompt medical treatment will keep it from developing into something more serious. Prompt medical treatment is especially important for small children and elderly adults or people with pre-existing medical conditions.[15]
    Identify a Brown Recluse Step 11 Version 3.jpg
    • Keep in mind that doctors aren't typically entomologists. They'll treat your bite but might not be able to tell if it was actually a brown recluse bite or something else. [16]
    • If severe, an ulcer will develop within 3-5 days after the initial bite. If the ulcer breaks down, it becomes a wound that can take months to completely heal.[17]
  3. Monitor other symptoms, including fever and nausea. If you develop a fever or if the area around the bite appears infected, get emergency medical treatment as soon as possible. Even though this is likely a secondary infection, it's still a medical emergency. You need antibiotics to kill the infection and keep it from spreading.[18]
    Identify a Brown Recluse Step 10 Version 3.jpg
    • If not infected, most brown recluse bites heal completely within 3 weeks.

[Edit]Video

[Edit]Tips

  • Shake out seasonal clothing and shoes before you put them on, especially if they were kept in a dark, dry area.[19]
  • Plug up or seal any vents or gaps to keep brown recluse spiders from entering your home.
  • Wear work gloves and long sleeves when sorting through clothing or stored items—the small brown recluse can't bite through clothing.[20]

[Edit]Warnings

  • If you think you've been bitten by a brown recluse, seek medical treatment as soon as possible.[21]
  • Brown recluse spider bites are particularly dangerous for children, elderly people, and people with pre-existing medical conditions.[22]

[Edit]Related wikiHows

[Edit]References

[Edit]Quick Summary



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Thursday, June 29, 2023

How to Mulch Around a Tree

How to mulch a tree for healthy roots

Putting mulch around a tree makes lawns more attractive, controls weeds, and helps maintain soil moisture. However, if you apply mulch incorrectly, you can stimulate fungus growth, attract insects, and starve the tree's roots of oxygen. Luckily, expertly mulching around a tree is easy as can be if you follow our simple and effective steps. Read on for magnificent mulching!

[Edit]Things You Should Know

  • Shovel away old mulch, rocks, grass, and/or weeds from around your tree’s base to prepare your tree’s root flare for fresh mulch.
  • Spread an even layer of medium-textured mulch in a 4–5 ft (1.2–1.5 m) diameter around the tree, leaving 1–2 inches (2.5–5.1 cm) of space between the tree and the mulch.
  • Continue to spread an even layer of mulch around the tree until it’s 2–4 inches (5.1-10.2 cm) deep, adding stones around the mulch’s edge to create a barrier, if desired.

[Edit]Steps

[Edit]Adding a Proper Mulch Bed

  1. Select a medium-textured mulch. Fine textured mulch gets compacted and will starve your tree's roots of oxygen, while coarse mulch is too porous to maintain adequate water levels. A medium-textured mulch will hold water and won't starve the tree's roots of oxygen making it the perfect choice for use around your tree.[1]
    Mulch Around a Tree Step 1 Version 2.jpg
    • Organic mulches include wood chips, bark, pine needles, leaves, and compost mixes.
    • If you're unsure how much mulch you'll need, type "mulch calculator" into a search engine to find online tools to help you calculate the amount.
  2. Spread mulch in a diameter around the tree. Apply a thin layer of mulch around the tree, not touching the tree itself. Leave of space between the base of the tree and the mulch.[2]
    Mulch Around a Tree Step 2 Version 2.jpg
    • Remove any existing mulch, if necessary, by shoveling or spading it away.
    • Avoid creating a “mulch volcano” (pile of mulch around the tree’s base), as it will cut off your beautiful tree’s access to the oxygen it needs to thrive.
    • Mulch stops serving a purpose after covering up to a diameter around the tree.
  3. Continue laying down mulch until it's deep. Keep layering the mulch around the tree until it's at the proper depth of 2–4 inches (5.1–10.2 cm) and is spread level around the tree.[3]
    Mulch Around a Tree Step 3 Version 2.jpg
  4. Create a mulch-bed barrier with stones or extra mulch if desired. Pile about 1 inch (2.5 cm) of extra mulch around the edges of your mulch bed to create a barrier that will prevent your freshly laid mulch from washing away when it rains. Placing rocks around the mulch bed is another effective and stylish way to create a barrier as well.[4]
    Mulch Around a Tree Step 4 Version 2.jpg

[Edit]Mulch Bed Maintnence

  1. Pull or kill weeds that grow out of the mulch. Mulch acts as a barrier for weeds and grass. Pull any weeds or grass that begin to grow out of the mulch bed throughout the year to prevent future growth and disruption of your tree’s root system.[5]
    Mulch Around a Tree Step 5 Version 2.jpg
    • Apply herbicide, (chemical weed killer) around your tree to prevent grass and weeds from growing in your beautiful new mulch.
    • If you use an herbicide, ensure it's safe around trees.
  2. Rake the mulch to prevent it from getting packed down. Compacted mulch prevents oxygen from passing through, will starve your tree's roots, and often occurs due to excessive rainfall or people walking over it. Loosen compacted mulch by raking it.[6]
    Mulch Around a Tree Step 6 Version 2.jpg
  3. Replenish the mulch once a year. Mulching around the tree once a year will prevent weeds, provide essential nutrients, and help with the tree's drainage. Healthy, happy trees, here we come![7]
    Mulch Around a Tree Step 7 Version 2.jpg

[Edit]Removing an Existing “Mulch Volcano”

  1. Shovel away old mulch, dirt, and rocks. Shovel away all the old mulch, debris, and rocks so that the tree trunk is visible. A "mulch volcano” occurs when mulch gets piled up year after year around the base of a tree. This is detrimental, as it starves the roots of necessary oxygen.[8]
    Mulch Around a Tree Step 8 Version 2.jpg
  2. Remove girdling roots with a girdling chisel and mallet. If you notice any roots growing upward around the tree as you clear away old mulch, remove 1-2 inches (2.5–5.1 cm) of the root where it contacts the tree trunk. Position your girdling chisel at the desired cut point and use your mallet to pound the shear into the root.[9]
    Mulch Around a Tree Step 9 Version 2.jpg
    • Removing girdling roots will ensure that these roots do not reconnect and cause problems later down the line.
    • Girdling roots (roots visible around the tree's base) indicate that the tree is starved for oxygen and will wrap around the tree's base and kill it over time.
  3. Remove grass and other weeds around the tree with a spade. Scrape the area around the tree's base to remove weeds and/or grass. Once you shovel away the excess mulch, dirt, and rocks, you’ll see the primary root flare around the tree's base.[10]
    Mulch Around a Tree Step 10 Version 2.jpg
    • Mulch will act as a natural weed barrier.
    • Avoid using roll-out weed barriers, also known as landscaping fabric, as these will starve the tree of oxygen and compact the soil underneath them.[11]

[Edit]Video

[Edit]Things You'll Need

[Edit]References

[Edit]Quick Summary



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How to Fix Painful Shoes

Certain shoes can be painful to wear, but they do not always have to be. Before you subject yourself to the torture of aching, chafed, and blistered feet, try some of the tips and tricks outlines in this article. Keep in mind, however, that some shoes may be poorly structured and impossible to fix completely. Read this article to learn how to make your painful shoes painless to wear, or at least a little more bearable.

[Edit]Things You Should Know

  • Prevent blisters and chafing by putting insoles in your shoes. Applying antiperspirant stick to your feet can help reduce blisters, as well.
  • Stretch out too-tight shoes with a shoe tree or shoe stretcher. A cobbler can also stretch your shoes if you'd prefer a pro to do it.
  • Insert a heel grip if your shoes are too big and your feet slide around in them.
  • Wear socks that meet your needs. Athletic socks provide arch support, moisture-wicking socks reduce sweat, and toe socks prevent blisters.

[Edit]Steps

[Edit]Using Moleskin, Inserts, and Insoles

  1. Prevent blisters, chafing, and cutting by sticking pieces of moleskin inside your shoe. Purchase some moleskin from a shoe store (or the shoe repair section of a drug store) and take out one sheet. Place the sheet behind the offending strap or heel and trace it with a pencil. Cut the shape out using a pair of scissors and peel off the backing. Stick the moleskin onto the strap or heel.[1][2]
    Fix Painful Shoes Step 1 Version 4.jpg
    • This will also work on other areas that cause chafing. If the area is inside your shoe, cut out a small circle or oval that is slightly larger than the area getting chafed. Peel off the backing and stick the moleskin to the offending area.
    • You can also stick the moleskin directly onto your foot, and peel it off at the end of the day.
  2. Prevent friction and blisters by applying an anti-friction stick to your feet. You can purchase one at a drugstore. Apply the balm directly onto your skin, where the chafing and blistering is likely to occur.
    Fix Painful Shoes Step 2 Version 4.jpg
    • You probably do not want to apply this to existing blisters. Instead, consider buying some blister treatments instead. They look like oval band-aids and go over the blister. They help cushion the blister and keep it clean so that it does not get infected.
  3. Consider using an antiperspirant stick to reduce sweating. The sweat and moisture created by chafing can cause or worsen blisters. An antiperspirant reduces the moisture, which may reduce blistering.
    Fix Painful Shoes Step 3 Version 4.jpg
  4. Keep your foot in place and prevent chafing and bruising with an insole. When your foot slips around from side to side, blisters can form along the front and back of your foot, where the material rubs against your skin. If you find your foot moving around inside a wedge heel or similar style, place a gel or padded insole inside the shoe to reduce movement.
    Fix Painful Shoes Step 4 Version 4.jpg
  5. Ease pain in the ball of your foot with some ball-of-foot cushions. If the ball of your foot is aching at the end of the day, your shoe may be too hard; this is especially common in high heels. Purchase a set of ball-of-foot cushions and stick them in the front of your shoes, right where the ball of your foot sits. They are usually shaped like ovals or eggs.
    Fix Painful Shoes Step 5 Version 4.jpg
    • If you have a pair of heeled sandals that have a strap between the toes, consider getting a heart-shaped cushion. The rounded parts of the heart will fit to either side of the toe strap.[3]
  6. Use some silicone gel dots or adhesive foam tape to ease excessive pressure in smaller areas. Both can be purchased in a shoe store or a drug store. The silicone gel dots are clear and easily disguised, but the foam tape can be cut to just the right shape and size.
    Fix Painful Shoes Step 6 Version 3.jpg
  7. Use silicone heel cups or arch-supporting insoles to sooth aching heels. If your heels ache, it may be because the back/heel area of your shoe is too hard. It could also be because your shoes do not give your feet enough arch support. Try putting in a silicone heel cup or an arch support insole. Both can be trimmed down to the right size, and have adhesive on the back so that they don't slip around.
    Fix Painful Shoes Step 7 Version 3.jpg
    • Arch supporting insoles are usually labeled as such; if you are having troubles finding some, look for something that is thicker in the middle of the insole—right where the arch of your foot would go.
    • Placing an insole in a tight shoe may make your feet feel overcrowded and uncomfortable. If this happens, try a thinner insole
  8. Prevent scrunched toes in high heels by asking a shoe cobbler to trim the heel down for you. Sometimes, the angle between the heel and the ball-of-foot is too great, causing your feet to slide forward and squish your toes against the front of the shoe. Reducing the heel height might fix this. Do not attempt to do this on your own; seek out a shoe cobbler to do it for you. Most high heels can be trimmed down up to 1 inch (2.54 centimeters) by a shoe cobbler.[4]
    Fix Painful Shoes Step 8 Version 3.jpg

[Edit]Fixing the Size

  1. Know how the wrong size can hurt and how to fix it. Shoes that are too large can hurt just as much as shoes that are too small. Large shoes won't offer you enough support and cause your foot to move around too much, leading to chafing and scrunched toes. Shoes that are too small will leave your feet feeling cramped and aching at the end of the day. Fortunately, it is possible to stretch shoes out a little bit; it is also possible to fill shoes in to make them smaller.
    Fix Painful Shoes Step 9 Version 3.jpg
    • Keep in mind that some materials are easier to stretch than others.
    • When you're buying shoes, try shopping at the end of the day, when your feet are at their largest. That can help you avoid accidentally buying shoes that are too small.[5]
  2. Try putting in an insole if your shoe is too large. They will provide extra cushioning inside your shoe and prevent your foot from wriggling around too much.
    Fix Painful Shoes Step 10 Version 3.jpg
  3. Use a heel grip if your shoe is too big and your foot slides forward too much. A heel grip is an oval-shaped cushion with adhesive on one side. It can be made from gel or foam covered with moleskin. Simply peel the backing off the heel grip, and stick it to the inside of your shoe, right where the heel is. It will add extra cushioning to the back of the shoe, which will prevent your heel from getting chafed and keep your foot in place.
    Fix Painful Shoes Step 11 Version 4.jpg
  4. Fill out large toe boxes with some lambs' wool. If your new loafers or work shoes are too large and your toes keep sliding forward and getting scrunched, try filling out the toe area with some lambswool. This breathable, airy material will be more comfortable and less-likely to wad up, like tissue. You can also try using some cotton balls.
    Fix Painful Shoes Step 12 Version 3.jpg
  5. Stretch out your shoes with a shoe tree. A shoe tree can either maintain the shape of your shoe or stretch it out, depending on the length or width of the tree. Insert the shoe tree into your shoe in between wearings. This technique works best for leather and suede, but will not work on rubber or plastic.
    Fix Painful Shoes Step 13 Version 4.jpg
  6. Stretch out your shoes using a shoe stretcher. Spray your shoe with some shoe stretching spray, then tuck the stretcher into you shoe. All shoe stretchers are going to be a little bit different, but most will have a handle and a knob. The knob will adjust the length and the handle will adjust the width. Keep turning the handle and knob until the shoe material is snug, then leave the stretcher in the shoe for six to eight hours. Once the time is up, turn the handle and knob the other way (to make the shoe stretcher smaller) and pull the stretcher out of your shoe. This is a great option for too-small loafers and work shoes.
    Fix Painful Shoes Step 14 Version 2.jpg
    • There are different types of shoe stretchers available, including ones for high heels. A two-way stretcher might be the most useful, as it can stretch both the width and the length of your shoe.
    • Some shoe stretches have attachments for ailments like bunions. Insert these attachments before using the shoe stretcher.[6]
    • Shoe stretchers can only break in shoes and loosen them so that they do not feel so snug or tight; they cannot make your shoe whole size bigger.
    • Shoe stretchers work best on natural materials, such as leather and suede, which have some natural stretch to them. They're not as effective on materials that don't stretch, like canvas, plastic, or rubber.[7]
  7. Ask a cobbler to stretch out your shoe for you. Doing so will give your toes more room to move, which may reduce squeezing and soreness throughout the foot. Stretching only works with shoes made of leather and suede, however. If you have an expensive pair of dress shoes that you don't want to ruin by stretching yourself, this is a good alternative.
    Fix Painful Shoes Step 15 Version 2.jpg
  8. Use ice to stretch out shoes that are too snug in the toe area. You can do this by filling two Ziploc bags partway with water and sealing them tightly so that there is no air left inside the bags and the water doesn't slosh out. Plop each bag into the toe of each shoe and stick both shoes into the freezer. Leave the shoes there until the ice freezes, then take them out. Pull the bags out of the shoe, then slip the shoes on. The shoes will conform to your foot shape as they warm back up.
    Fix Painful Shoes Step 16 Version 2.jpg
    • This helps stretch shoes out to some extent because water expands as it freezes.
    • This will only work on natural materials, such as leather, suede, and fabric. It may not have much effect on plastics and pleather.
    • Keep in mind that if your leather or suede shoes become damp, you may see some staining. Consider wrapping your shoe with a towel to protect it.

[Edit]Fixing Other Problems

  1. Buy some specialized socks. Sometimes, wearing the right type of sock with your shoe is all that you need to fix painful shoes. These types of socks offer support to your feet, wick away moisture, and help prevent chafing and blisters. Here are some types of specialized socks that you might be able to find, and what they can do for you:[8][9]
    Fix Painful Shoes Step 17 Version 2.jpg
    • Athletic socks are tighter in the arch area. This helps offer arch support, and makes them ideal for athletic and running shoes.
    • Moisture wicking socks will help remove sweat from around your feet. This will help keep your feet dry and prevent blisters.
    • Running socks have extra padding on the underside, This will help absorb the impact your foot makes when you run.
    • Toe socks are like gloves, but for your feet instead. They cover each toe separately, and may help prevent blisters between toes.
    • Consider the material. Some materials, such as cotton, soak up sweat too easily, which can lead to blisters. Acrylic, polyester, and polypropylene help remove sweat, leaving your feet dry.
  2. Prevent painful flip-flops by cushioning the thong part. Flip-flops can be comfortable and easy to wear. When the thong starts to dig in between your toes, however, they can become painful. Here are some tricks you can try to make flip-flops less painful:
    Fix Painful Shoes Step 18 Version 2.jpg
    • Use silicon flip-flop inserts. They are shaped like ball-of-foot cushions, except that they have a little cylinder that sticks up near the front. Place the insert in the front of your flip-flop, then slip the thong part into the cylinder. The cylinder will help prevent the thong from digging in between your toes.
    • Wrap the thong area with some adhesive moleskin. The will be especially effective on plastic or rubber flip-flops. It will help cushion your foot and soften any sharp edges.
    • Wrap some fabric around the thong. You can even continue wrapping the fabric around the straps for a colorful, personal touch. Secure both ends of the fabric to the shoe with a drop of shoe glue.
  3. Know how to treat painfully-smelly shoes. You can use micro-suede insoles to absorb odor-causing sweat, or you can stick some tea bags into the shoes while you are not wearing them. The tea bags will absorb the odor. Discard the tea bags the next day.
    Fix Painful Shoes Step 19 Version 2.jpg
  4. Consider taping your third and fourth toe together using skin-colored medical tape. This helps lessen pain in the ball of your foot. The reason this works is because there is a nerve between those two toes. That nerve splits when you wear heels and put pressure on it. Taping those toes together pulls some of the strain away.[10]
    Fix Painful Shoes Step 20 Version 2.jpg
  5. Break in stiff shoes by wearing them for short periods. If your new shoes are painful because they are stiff, you can help soften them up by wearing them around your home. Be sure to take breaks often and take the shoes off when they become too painful. Over time, the shoes may loosen up and become more comfortable to wear.
    Fix Painful Shoes Step 21 Version 2.jpg
  6. Use a hairdryer to stretch and break in stiff shoes. Turn a hairdryer on to the lowest setting and point the nozzle into the shoe. Warm the shoe up from the inside for a few minutes, then turn the hairdryer off. Put on two pairs of socks and slip the shoe on. As the shoe cools back down, it will conform to the shape of your foot. This method is best used for shoes made from natural materials; it is not recommended for plastics and other synthetic materials as it may damage them.
    Fix Painful Shoes Step 22 Version 2.jpg

[Edit]Video

[Edit]Tips

  • Keep in mind that feet change sizes. They get more swollen when it is warm, and thinner when it is cool. Also, feet can change size as you grow older. It might be a good idea to have a specialist measure your feet at a shoe store every so often.
  • Consider switching your shoes around throughout the day. If you are walking to work or an event, wear some comfortable shoes. Change to your dress shoes once you get to work or the event.
  • If you suffer from bunions, look for shoes that are labeled as "wide." Some shoes come in narrow, normal/regular, and wide sizes.
  • Soak sore feet in hot water after you take your shoes off. The heat will soothe the pain and may make your feet feel much better.
  • Wear new shoes around the house before you wear them out. Doing so helps break them in and allows you to identify any potential problems before they get too painful.
  • If you develop blisters, soak your feet for 10 minutes in warm green tea. The astringent tea kills bacteria, reducing odor and minimizing your chances of developing an infection. The warmth will also help soothe away the pain.
  • Attach a clear or black heel protector to the bottom of skinny heels when you anticipate walking on unsteady terrain. Heel protectors create more surface area, which reduces the likelihood of your heel getting caught.

[Edit]Warnings

  • Sometimes, it is not possible to fix a painful shoe, either because of the shoe's structure, size, or quality. In this case, you may have to consider purchasing a pair of different shoes.

[Edit]References

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[Edit]Quick Summary



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