Wednesday, April 19, 2023

How to Iron on a Patch

Personalize your worn-out clothes and accessories with your favorite patch designs

You love that worn-out denim jacket you’ve had for a decade, but you’re wondering if it needs a little pizzazz to give it new life. An iron-on patch is an easy, affordable solution to add your personal aesthetic to any piece of clothing or to cover up small holes and tears, too. In this article, we’ll show you step-by-step how to prep your garment and iron on a patch that lasts so you can rock your design for years to come. Let’s get started while the iron’s hot!

[Edit]Things You Should Know

  • Lay your garment flat on an ironing board, then position your patch in the exact spot you want it to stick to.
  • Cover the patch with a thin cloth, then iron it with the highest heat the fabric can take for 30-60 seconds (check the iron icon on the tag for max heat info).
  • Flip over the garment and iron the backside of the patch for another 30 seconds. Once the patch cools, it’s ready to wear!

[Edit]Steps

[Edit]Check if your clothing or accessory can be ironed.

  1. Look for the iron symbol on the garment’s tag or label. The symbol looks like a small icon of an iron. If there’s an “X” through it, it means the item can’t be ironed safely. One dot, 2 dots, or 3 dots inside the icon means the item can be ironed at low, medium, or high heat, respectively.[1]
    Iron on a Patch Step 1 Version 5.jpg
    • If the garment can’t be ironed or there’s no label, sew on the patch instead so you don’t risk melting or damaging the material.
    • The best fabrics for iron-on patches are sturdy ones like denim, canvas, cotton, polyester, or cotton blends.[2]
    • Vinyl, rayon, nylon, leather, silk, or other animal-product or sensitive fabrics are not good for ironing since the heat can damage them.

[Edit]Choose where to place the patch ahead of time.

  1. Lay your garment out flat and mark the patch’s exact location. For precise placement, like placing a patch in the middle of a pocket, use a tape measure to make sure the patch is exactly centered. Then, use a fabric marker and add a small dot to the fabric where the center of the patch will go.[3]
    Iron on a Patch Step 2 Version 4.jpg
    • If you’re ironing on a patch to cover a hole, trim and place the patch so the edges cover at least of fabric around the hole.[4]
    • If you’re ironing on multiple patches or plan to add more later, keep the end result in mind and leave room for future patches.
    • Some popular spots for patches include sweater or jacket elbows, baseball or bucket hats, pockets on jeans or t-shirts, or the back of denim jackets.

[Edit]Heat up the iron.

  1. Turn the iron to the hottest temperature the fabric can take. Crank the heat all the way up for heavy fabrics like denim or canvas, and choose a medium or medium-high heat for cotton or polyester. Make sure the steam function is off and there’s no water sitting in the iron (any moisture will make the adhesive less effective).[5]
    Iron on a Patch Step 3 Version 4.jpg
    • If you’re ironing polyester, start with medium heat and raise the temperature if needed. High heat can accidentally burn or discolor polyester.
    • Choose medium heat if your patch is chenille, since the yarn is sensitive to high heat and may burn.
    • Clothes irons are the easiest to use, but any iron (even a hair straightener) can work as long as it's hot enough to melt the patch’s adhesive.

[Edit]Lay the garment flat on an ironing board.

  1. Arrange the garment so the fabric is smooth and flat against the surface. Use any flat, clean, heat-resistant surface if you don’t have an ironing board. Try a doubled-up bath towel over a sturdy table as a substitute.[6]
    Iron on a Patch Step 4 Version 4.jpg
    • Take a lint roller to the garment to make sure it’s fuzz-free. If needed, iron out the spot where the patch will go so it lays flat (without steam).
    • If you’re patching over a hole, trim any loose threads or worn edges with scissors as well.

[Edit]Position the patch onto the garment.

  1. Peel the backing off of the patch and place it where you want it.[7] If you marked your fabric earlier, center the patch on your fabric marker dot. Make sure the adhesive side of the patch is laying flat and that the edges aren’t crooked or angled (unless you want them that way).[8]

    • On embroidered patches, the adhesive side is the underside. If your patch doesn’t have adhesive, place fusible webbing between the patch and fabric.
    • If you’re ironing on transfer paper, peel the image side and place the image face down (the paper backing on the other side comes off later).
    • If your patch is meant to blend in with the fabric, slide it under or inside the garment so the print side shows through the hole. Check the patch’s instructions for details.

[Edit]Place parchment paper or a thin cloth over the patch.

  1. Lay the cloth carefully so you don’t move the patch on accident. The extra layer protects your fabric and the patch from the heat of the iron. It also protects your iron from any rogue adhesive that might leak out from underneath the patch.[9]

[Edit]Iron over the patch for 30-60 seconds.

  1. Use firm pressure and keep the iron moving the entire time.[10] Iron continuously until the adhesive backing is fully melted and stuck to the fabric (this takes at least 30 seconds for small or medium patches, and up to 1 minute for large ones). Make sure to iron over every corner and edge of the patch for the best result.[11]

    • Wait for the iron to fully heat up before ironing on the patch. The adhesive needs a high temperature to melt, and a cool iron won’t be as effective.[12]

[Edit]Iron the back of the patch for 30 seconds.

  1. Flip the garment so you can iron the backside of the patch easily. Go over the back of the patch with firm pressure for about 30 seconds to make sure the adhesive is fully melted and stuck to the fabric. There’s no need for a cloth or parchment paper—just iron the fabric directly.[13]

    • Flip over the garment carefully in case the patch hasn’t fully stuck to the front yet.

[Edit]Let the patch cool and check if it’s stuck.

  1. Flip the garment right side up and test the edges of the patch. Try to lift up the edges or corners of the patch with one finger. If they move a bit, put your cloth or parchment paper over the patch again and iron for another 10 seconds. Repeat until the patch is secure.[14]

    • If you're working with a paper transfer patch, wait 10 minutes for it to fully cool and then peel off the paper backing on top.
    • Once the patch is cool and secure, your garment is ready to wear!

[Edit]Sew the patch’s edges if needed.

  1. Reinforce the patch’s corners and edges if they won’t stay glued down. Choose thread that matches the patch, then use a sewing machine or a needle and thread to stitch around the perimeter. Sewing a straight stitch or a simple running stitch will do! The extra support keeps the patch securely attached to your clothes and ensures it won’t fall off later.[15]

    • Transfer paper patches can’t be reinforced with sewing.

[Edit]Video

[Edit]Tips

  • If you can’t find a patch you enjoy, try designing your own applique.
  • Trim around the image on printed transfer paper patches, but leave at least of space around the image so the transfer will stick.
  • Follow the instructions on your iron-on patch carefully, as the application process could vary depending on the brand and type of patch.[16]

[Edit]Warnings

  • Wash the garment or accessory as little as possible to preserve the patch. Hand wash and air dry if possible. If not, turn the garment inside out and machine wash in cold water, then air dry.[17]

[Edit]Related wikiHows

[Edit]References

[Edit]Quick Summary



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