How to Grow an Herb Garden Indoors Year Round

Herbs like basil, parsley, thyme, and oregano are great additions to your indoor plants, and they'll lead to lots of yummy foods! Once you decide which kind of herbs you'd like to grow, either plant the seeds in some nutrient-rich soil, take a cutting from a previous plant, or buy a little baby herb plant that's ready to grow. Herbs need at least 4-6 hours of sunlight a day to be healthy, so make sure you place them in a spot where they'll receive the best care.

EditSteps

EditChoosing Your Herbs

1. Plant chives for an onion-flavored herb. Chives are a relatively low-maintenance herb to grow—they require about 4-6 hours of sunlight a day and a temperature between and .^[1]
   
   • Use chives in garnishes, salads, sauces, or soups, just to name a few.
   • Plant chives seeds in nutrient-rich soil.
2. Select parsley for a sun-loving plant. You can start parsley from seed easily or buy a baby parsley plant. Parsley is a great herb to add flavor to your food, and it does well in fluctuating temperatures.^[2]
   
   • Use parsley on foods like chicken, roasts, fish, grilled steaks, or vegetables.
   • Look for a healthy, green parsley plant at your local nursery, or give it lots of sunlight and rich soil if you're planting it from seed.
3. Grow oregano for an herb rich in antioxidants. You can either purchase a baby oregano plant to keep indoors, or you can take a cutting from an oregano plant you might already have outside. Give oregano plenty of sunlight and well-draining soil.^[3]
   
   • Oregano is often used on pizzas, in sauces, or mixed in with salad.
   • Take a cutting by removing a healthy section of the oregano and placing it in a cup of fresh water.
4. Pick out a thyme plant to provide great flavor. Thyme needs lots of sunlight—at least 6-8 hours a day or more. It does well in fluctuating temperatures and likes soil that drains well.^[4]
   
   • Use thyme in soups, stews, and sauces.
   • Find a thyme plant at your local nursery or garden store.
5. Sow basil seeds to grow healthy basil plants. Basil can be a bit tricky to grow, but it’s easiest if you start from seeds. Basil needs constant warmth, so it’s not a great herb to grow next to cool windows or in a climate where the temperature drops a significant amount at night.^[5]
   
   • Basil is used to make pesto and many other pasta dishes, as well as to treat several different ailments.
   • Keep basil warm near a window and avoid letting it feel a drop in temperature.
   • If you’re purchasing basil seeds online, make sure you look for a reliable seed seller.
6. Cultivate rosemary for an aromatic herb. Rosemary does well if you take a cutting from a grown plant, or you can purchase a baby rosemary plant that’s ready to be cared for. Rosemary does well as long as the temperature stays between and , and it likes at least 6 hours of sunlight.^[6]
   
   • Use rosemary in vinegars, oils, or sauces, among others.
   • Cut off a section of a rosemary plant and stick it in a cup of water to watch it grow roots.
7. Choose sage for strong flavor and health benefits. Either buy a sage plant from your local nursery or take a sage cutting and grow it in a pot. Sage needs well-draining soil and full sun, but it can tolerate dry air well.^[7]
   
   • Sage goes well with many different types of meats, but it’s quite strong, so use it in small amounts.
   • Visit your local nursery to find a baby sage plant or cut off a section of an already-grown sage plant to watch roots form in a cup of water.

EditStarting from Seed

1. Purchase your seeds from a reliable source. You can visit your local nursery or garden store to pick out seeds of the herb you’d like to grow, or you can purchase seed packets online. Many seed packets come with over 100 seeds each, providing you with plenty of seeds.
   
   • Reliable sources have a good reputation and positive buyer reviews.
   • You can also ask your local nursery or garden store employees where they recommend buying seeds online.
2. Prepare a container with nutrient-rich soil. The container should have drainage holes to let water pass through—clay pots are a good option, as are tiny seed trays designed for growing lots of different sections of seeds. Fill ¾ of the container with well-draining potting soil.^[8]
   
   • You can find nutrient-rich potting soil at a garden or home improvement store.
   • Seed trays have multiple cells, perfect for growing several different seeds or herbs at once.
3. Sprinkle a few seeds into the container. If you’re using small seed trays, scatter 2-3 seeds in each tray. If you’re using a larger pot, you may want to sprinkle about 5 seeds into the soil, just in case some of them don’t sprout.^[9]
   
   • Spread the seeds evenly so that none of them are on top of each other.
4. Cover the seeds with a fine layer of soil. Sprinkle just enough soil over the seeds so that they’re not exposed—a thickness of about is good. A thin layer of soil will protect the seeds while allowing the small seedling to sprout through the soil.^[10]
   
   • Don’t pack down the soil once you spread it in the container.
5. Place the container in a warm spot with dappled light. Once the seeds have been planted, set the container near a warm window that receives lots of light or in a warm room.^[11]
   
   • It’s not necessary for the seeds to be in direct sunlight while they germinate.
6. Use a spray bottle to water the seeds. Fill up a spray bottle full of water and mist the soil. If you’re not sure if you’ve watered them enough, let the water soak in for about an hour and check on the seeds again—if the soil is dry, it could need more water.^[12]
   
   • Make sure you use a saucer or plastic tray underneath the container to catch any water that drains out.
   • Use a piece of plastic to cover the container to keep moisture inside of the soil.

EditCaring for the Herbs

1. Use a saucer or drain pan to catch excess water. It's common for the plant to release water through the drainage holes in its container when it has too much. Placing some sort of liner underneath the container will not only keep water from leaking everywhere, but it will also protect your surface.^[13]
   
   • Opt for drain pans made of plastic or rubber as opposed to clay—clay lets water pass through more easily.
2. Keep the herbs in a warm, sunny environment. Herbs like a temperature of about indoors, as well as some indirect sunlight. If the temperature outside drops a bit at night, this is okay for most plants as long as it warms back up in the morning.^[14]
   
   • Place the herbs in a south-facing window, if possible.
   • Basil is one exception—it doesn’t like cool weather and will start drooping if the temperature drops.
   • Keep the leaves from touching the glass window to prevent it from getting too hot or too cold.
3. Set up artificial light sources to help the herbs grow. If the herbs aren’t able to get 6 hours of natural sunlight a day, purchase clamp-on reflector lights with fluorescent bulbs. You can set these lights above the plants to provide sufficient lighting.^[15]
   
   • These lights can be kept on for up to 12 hours a day, depending on the plant's needs.
4. Wait for the herbs to dry out before watering them. Most herbs don’t need constant watering. Check to see if the plant is dry, and if so, water the soil directly instead of pouring water all over the leaves and stem.^[16]
   
   • You can check to see if the herb has dried out by sticking your finger down into the soil near the roots. If this underground section feels dry, it’s time to water the plant.
   • Don’t leave standing water in the drain pan—this can cause rot.
5. Apply a liquid fertilizer to keep the herbs healthy. Herbs like fertilizers such as fish emulsion or liquid seaweed. When you’re picking out a fertilizer, avoid ones that promote blooms to keep the energy focused on creating new leaves.^[17]
   
   • Read the instructions on the fertilizer to determine how much to use on the herbs, as well as how often.
   • Most fertilizers are applied every couple of weeks.
6. Cut the herbs to encourage growth. Trimming your herbs frequently will cause new leaves to form, expanding your plant. Start from the top of the plant, cutting right below where a leaf meets the stem. You can also use your fingers to pinch off the leaves, as desired.^[18]
   
   • Never cut off more than one third of the plant.
   • Use sharp, clean scissors or cutting shears.

EditTips

• Rotate your plants every week so that they don’t start leaning in one direction.
• Cover the saucer or drain pan with pebbles and place your potted herb on top—this helps promote air circulation through the plant.
• Check with your local nursery or online resource to find out the best way to grow your chosen herb, whether from a cutting, by seed, or by purchasing a baby plant.
• Grow your herb from a cutting by snipping off a healthy section of the plant and placing it in water.

EditWarnings

• If you see your herbs growing longer stems and fewer leaves, this might mean that they’re not getting enough sunlight.
• Avoid getting fertilizer on the leaves, as you might be eating them.
• Overwatering is the biggest cause of herb issues. Always make sure the herb actually needs water before watering it.
• Yellowing leaves can be a sign of overwatering and root rot.

EditRelated wikiHows

• Light Up an Indoor Garden
• Create Your own Mini Garden
• Grow Herb Gardens from Seed
• Design a Successful Indoor Garden
• Build a Hydroponic Garden
• Grow Rosemary Indoors

EditSources and Citations

Cite error: <ref> tags exist, but no <references/> tag was found

from How to of the Day https://ift.tt/2kFzT26

How to Decorate a Flower Vase with a Ribbon

You can transform a plain vase into something eye-catching and special using a simple ribbon! It’s an easy, fun DIY project that can add a personal touch to the decorative vases around your home or spruce up a bouquet of flowers you are giving as a gift. Keep things simple with a regular bow, or create an intricate corset ribbon around your vase. Embellish the ribbon with rhinestones or feathers to add a little bling!

EditSteps

EditMaking a Simple Bow

1. Choose a ribbon that compliments the vase and your bouquet. If the flowers are all one color, consider a patterned ribbon with that color highlighted. If your bouquet is full of colors and textures, consider a solid-colored ribbon. Choose a width of ribbon that mirrors the proportions of the vase. If your vase is dainty, choose a thinner ribbon. If the vase is stout, go for a wider ribbon.
   
   • This is best suited to vases with a neck. For square, rectangular, or pillar vases, consider gluing your ribbon down.
2. Add a complimentary ribbon for a pop of color or texture. Try adding raffia ribbon or twine to your first-pick ribbon for a rustic look. Organdy ribbon is transparent and makes a great second ribbon. Try a lush, velvet ribbon to help accent a fall or winter bouquet with rich colors.^[1]
   
   • Be sure to use a complimentary ribbon that's thinner than the main ribbon! That way, it emphasizes without overpowering it.
3. Cut your ribbon(s) with room to spare. Experiment with wrapping the ribbon around the vase multiple times and decide if you want to make a large bow or small bow. Do a test run while the ribbon is still on the reel to decide on your desired length. Cut the ribbon end on a diagonal line for the cleanest edge.
   
   • Stiffer ribbons like organdy and raffia ribbon make nice large bows. Ribbons that are made of fabric, like silk or velvet, end up looking droopy if the bow is too large.^[2]
4. Tie the ribbon around the neck of the vase and make a simple bow. If you have 2 ribbons cut, line them up together so that the thinner ribbon is stacked on top of the thicker ribbon. Loop them around the vase together and tie them in a bow as if they were a single ribbon.
   
   • If the 2 ribbons are different in texture, you may want to adjust the size of the bows individually.
5. Adjust the length of the tails as desired. If you have 2 ribbons, consider letting their tails be noticeably different lengths. You can also change the shape of the tails if you want to. For example, you could cut the tail of a wide, flat ribbon, into a V-shape to create a banner look.
   
   • To cut a V-shape, place your scissors at the bottom corner of 1 ribbon tail. Snip up and diagonally, stopping at the center of the ribbon. Place your scissors on the other tail corner and make an identical cut toward the center of the ribbon on that side to create the V.

EditTying a Corset Around a Pillar Vase

1. Use a piece of double-sided satin ribbon. You may need to adjust the amount of ribbon you use depending on the height and diameter of your vase. Choose a satin ribbon that is at least wide in a color that will compliment your bouquet.^[3]
   
   • Double-sided ribbon is shiny on both sides -- both sides look identical.
   • If you are unsure about how long a piece of ribbon you should use, follow the directions using a piece of inexpensive twine as a dry run and then cut your ribbon accordingly.
2. Find the approximate center of your piece of ribbon. Place the center flat against the back of the vase, right below the top rim. You should have a length of ribbon extending on each side of the vase. Your left hand should be holding the left side and your right hand should be holding the ribbon extending out on the right side of the vase.^[4]
   
3. Wrap the ribbon around to the front and cross 1 side over the other. Twist the side that is on top so that it is underneath the other piece. Then, switch hands, and bring the ribbon around to the back of the vase again. Situate the ribbon right beneath your original starting point.^[5]
   
   • You don't want the ribbon to overlap as you wrap the ribbon around the vase; line up the ribbon just beneath it.
4. Repeat the same crossover and twist motion in the back of the vase. Bring the ribbon back around to the front. Repeat wrapping around and crossing over multiple times, moving lower down the vase with each wrap, until the ribbon is at the bottom front of the vase.^[6]
   
   • You can create a very tight corset that covers most of the vase’s surface by increasing the amount of times you wrap the ribbon around the vase.
5. Tie a simple bow at the bottom of the vase. Go around the back of the vase one last time, and then tie the ribbon into a bow in the front. Trim any excess ribbon until the tails are the length that you want.^[7]
   
   • Be sure to cut the tails of your ribbon diagonally or cut a V-shape out of the end for a banner trim.

EditAdding Other Embellishments

1. Paint a plain glass vase if you want an extra pop of color. Use enamel paint to coat the inside of your glass vase if you want to retain the reflective surface of glass but add some color. Coat the outside of your vase to imitate a ceramic surface. Use a small household paintbrush or a large artist paintbrush to apply the paint.^[8]
   
   • Allow the paint to dry for 24 hours before moving to the next step.
   • If you paint the inside of your vase, use it for dried flower arrangements instead of fresh. The paint will come off into the water.
2. Cut out images to create a decoupaged collage for your vase. Decide how you'd like to arrange the images before you begin attaching them to the vase. Apply dishwasher-safe Mod Podge or a clear-drying tacky glue to the back of each image. Then, attach your cut-outs to the vase in the arrangement you planned.^[9]
   
   • You can cut out fun images or words from magazines and books, or find images or words online and print them out.
   • Once your collage is complete, allow the vase to dry for 30 minutes before using it.
   • Consider applying a top coat of Mod Podge to seal and protect the decoupage.
3. Add feathers, beads, buttons, and bling if you want a more ornate look. You could glue craft feathers onto the body of the vase, for example. Self-adhesive rhinestones are a simple option if you want to add some bling, or wrap colorful strings of beads around the vase. Get creative with inexpensive add-ons!^[10]
   
   • Use dishwasher-safe Mod Podge or a clear-drying tacky glue to attach beads, buttons, or bling directly onto the vase.
   • Cut small pieces of ribbon and crisscross them into star shapes with a shiny bead at the center.
   • Place glass beads in the bottom of your vase for an added touch. Use stones or shells collected from the beach or purchase glass craft beads in your favorite colors.
4. Finish the look by adding your ribbon to the finished vase. If you added a lot of embellishments, stick with a simple bow in a single color to keep the look clean. Add a little more flair by tying a corset or belted bow around the vase. Have fun with color combinations, patterns, and layering ribbons!
   

EditThings You’ll Need

EditMaking a Simple Bow

• Ribbon
• Vase
• Scissors

EditTying a Corset Around a Pillar Vase

• Wide double-sided ribbon
• Pillar vase
• Scissors

EditAdding Other Embellishments

• Ribbon or fabric
• Vase
• Scissors
• Enamel paint
• Dishwasher-safe Mod Podge or clear drying tacky glue
• Paintbrush
• Feathers, buttons, beads, and bling
• Stones, shells, or glass beads

EditSources and Citations

Cite error: <ref> tags exist, but no <references/> tag was found

from How to of the Day https://ift.tt/2HcOqLE

How to Care for a Goat

Goats are smart, curious pets that are fun to have around. However, they can also be hard work. If not cared for properly, they can get aggressive and may try to escape to greener pastures -- literally. Luckily, you can make your goat a happy family member by creating a safe home for them, feeding them properly, grooming them, and keeping them healthy.

EditSteps

EditCreating a Safe Home

1. Set aside a pasture. Your pasture should be large enough to accommodate your goat, a shelter, and entertainment features, such as large rocks for the goat to climb on. Your goat will forage for food in its pasture, so giving it more space will allow for more grazing. Goats like to eat plants, including weeds, grass, and bushes, so your goat pasture should have a lot of vegetation.
   
   • Goats forage for food and will eat whatever is in their pasture. Make sure everything growing in your pasture is non-toxic.
   • Goats love weeds, so don’t pull them. Your goat will enjoy munching on them.^[1]
   • Ideally, you should provide a minimum of an acre of pasture to allow for foraging. If your lot is smaller, you will need to supplement your goat's diet with hay and pellets.^[2]
2. Install a strong fence around the pasture. Your fence should not only keep the goat in, it should also keep predators out. Goats are smart and can climb, so they commonly escape from their pen. The fence should be high and difficult to climb, measuring at least 6 feet high. Some goat owners choose to install an electric fence, which provides an extra deterrent to escape.
   
   • You can construct a sturdy fence by installing heavy wood posts deep into the ground. Then anchor them with concrete. Secure the fence with livestock fencing, choosing the small mesh over the large.^[3]
   • Keep any enrichment items away from the fence so your goats don’t escape.
   • Your goat is less likely to try to escape if it has lots of space, plenty of food, a nice shelter, and entertainment.^[4]
3. Build a shelter for the goat. At the minimum, your goat will need a 3-sided shelter that faces the south, which helps protect it from wind. The goat will rely on the shelter to protect it from the elements, especially rain and heat. The shelter should be well ventilated but free from drafts. Place straw bedding inside the shelter so that the goat is comfortable.^[5]
   
   • Goats can live in a small shed or large dog house.
   • You may choose to install a concrete floor in the shelter, which is easy to maintain. However, it’s also expensive and should be covered with a soft straw bedding.
4. Provide entertainment for your goat. Goats are very intelligent, and a bored goat will go looking for trouble. Entertainment could include large rocks, a ramp to climb on, or recycled barrels. The goat will enjoy climbing on the items, as well as butting its head against them.^[6]
   
   • Make sure that whatever you place in the goat’s pen is sturdy and free of things that could harm the goat, such as protruding nails.
   • Use toys and treats to keep your goat’s mind active.

EditFeeding Your Goat

1. Provide fresh water. Your goat needs access to fresh water at all times. Use a heavy watering container, as goats can turn them over. You should check the water at least twice a day, more during extreme temperatures.^[7]
   
   • During winter, you may need to provide water throughout the day if the temperature drops below freezing. You can also purchase a freeze-proof watering device from a livestock store.^[8]
2. Provide your goat with plenty vegetation to graze. This could include grass, weeds, brush, vining plants, and other greenery. Goats can even eat prickly vegetation like briars! If your pasture doesn’t have a lot of variety, you may consider spreading seeds for common weeds like dandelion. Plant shrubs along the fenceline, as goats prefer to graze there. You can also bring the goat cuttings from yummy plants.^[9] It’s best to provide your goat with a mix of the following:
   
   • Grasses
   • Weeds
   • Vining plants
   • Ivy
   • Thistle
   • Brambles
   • Nettles
3. Keep your goat away from poisonous plants. Goats may have a reputation for being able to eat anything, but there are plants that can harm a goat. Although goats are able to sniff out dangerous plants, they’re also curious and may munch on them anyway. Make sure that these plants don’t grow in or near your pasture, and avoid supplying cuttings of them to your goat. Common plants that are poisonous to goats include:^[10]
   
   • Rhododendrons
   • Milkweed
   • Azaleas
   • Yew
   • Oleander
   • Delphinium
   • Lily-of-the-valley
   • Larkspur
   • Wild cherry
   • Buckthorn
   • Lilac
   • Daffodil
   • Laurel
   • Poppy
   • Rhubarb
   • Tomato
4. Supplement grazing with hay and other grains. Goats don’t require grains in their diet, but they will enjoy munching on them. Grains are also a great food choice during winter or if your pasture is too small to accommodate grazing alone.^[11] Feed the goat grains like hay, oats, bran, and barley.
   
   • Goats normally eat 3-4% of their body weight each day.^[12] You will need to base your goat's feed supply on the weight of the goat.
   • You only need to supplement your goat's diet if it doesn't have enough foraging material to eat. You may also want to supplement a dam before breeding or a goat that you are fattening up for slaughter.
   • You can also find feed pellets for goats, which are nutrient dense. You can provide these as an alternative to grains.
   • Feed them extra food during the winter, as this will help them withstand lower temperatures.^[13] For example, you may feed them up to 4% of their body weight in grains if the goat cannot forage.
5. Hang your feeders off of the ground. Although they love to graze, goats don’t like to eat their feed from off the ground. Keeping the food off the ground reduces the chance of mold, as well as prevents insects from eating or infesting it. When you are supplying them with food, such as hay, it’s best to mount it on the wall of the shelter or on a fence post.
   
   • Feeders used for horses are a good option.
   • If you have more than one goat, choose a wide feeder. The goats may try to push each other out of the way, and a narrow feeder can result in injury.^[14]
6. Get a vet recommended salt lick supplement. Goats need a variety of vitamins and minerals in their diet, but the quality of their diet can depend on soil quality and what you feed them. In many cases, they will need a supplement. Many owners choose a salt mix or salt lick that contains the needed mineral(s). This way the goat will happily eat the supplement, and they’ll drink more water, as well!
   
   • Your vet can tell you which blend will work best for your goat, as the quality of the soil in your region will determine which blend of minerals you need. They can also tell you how much of the salt lick supplement you should provide to your goat and how often.
   • You can purchase your goat’s salt mix or salt lick at a livestock store or online.
   • Make sure that extra supplement is stored away from the goats, as they may eat more than they’re supposed to if they can.^[15]

EditGrooming Your Goat

1. Brush out its coat daily. First, use a hard brush to break up and remove any caked on mud and dirt. Then, run a comb through the goat’s coat to remove any remaining particles. Finally, run a soft brush over the goat to create a shiny coat. As you do this, run your hands along the goat’s body to make sure that you don’t feel any lumps or bumps that could indicate a possible illness or injury.^[16]
   
   • If you do feel anything abnormal or if your goat’s demeanor has changed, call the vet immediately.
2. Inspect your goat’s hooves daily. Keep your goat’s hooves as dry as possible. During the daily brushing, check the goat’s hooves for damage or items that may get stuck in them, such as rocks or dirt. Remove anything that you see and make sure that the hoof looks good. If you notice any foul odors or signs of damage, call your vet immediately.
   
   • You can remove stones or dirt from a goat’s hoof with a hoof pick or by hand.
   • Foul odors can result from a condition called hoof rot, which needs treatment.^[17] In most cases, the goat will need copper sulfate foot baths.^[18] However, you should consult your vet.
3. Cut your goat’s hooves. Your goat can't run, jump, and climb happily without healthy hooves. Unfortunately, too much cutting and too little cutting can both make your goat lame. Have a professional show you how to cut your goat’s hooves, as well as the right size for the hooves. Once your goat’s hooves are properly cut, you’ll need to trim them every 6-8 weeks to maintain that length.^[19]
   
   • If you don’t feel comfortable cutting the goat’s hooves, get a professional to do it. It’s far better to pay the professional every time rather than risk harming your goat.
4. Trim your goat's coat if necessary. Use a pair of electric clippers to trim the goat’s coat. During cooler weather, this may include trimming around the udders, belly, tail, and thighs to keep it neat. During summer, you may choose to trim the goat’s coat shorter so that it’s more comfortable.^[20]
   
   • If you’re new to using the clippers, start with just a small area until you get the hang of it. It’s also a good idea to have someone who is experienced show you how to use them.
   • Don’t clip near the goat’s eyes, ears, or sensitive areas until you know how to use the clippers safely.
   • There is no minimum length for a goat's coat, but you should consider the weather in your area. It's not a good idea to clip the goat's hair short if the weather may cool down.

EditKeeping Your Goat Healthy

1. Remove manure and soiled bedding daily. Scoop out poop and wet, stinky bedding every day. This includes in the pasture and in the goat’s shelter. Replace the bedding with fresh hay.
   
   • This will prevent your goat from becoming ill since you’re removing the parasites that live in the manure.
   • Once or twice a year, you should do a deep cleaning of your goat’s shelter. Remove the bedding and scrub down all surfaces. Then replace the bedding with fresh hay.
2. Exercise your goat. Goats are active animals, so make sure your goat gets lots of exercise. Encourage your goat to climb by placing things to climb on in their pasture, such as large rocks, wooden structures, and bushes. You can also run and play with your goat.
   
   • If your pasture is on the smaller side, take the goat on a walk.
   • Goats also enjoy items like a seesaw, which allows them to run up and down it to try to balance it.
3. Ask your vet about the "BoSe" shot. The BoSe shot contains Selenium and Vitamin E, which your goat needs to stay healthy. They’re especially important for muscle, bone, and reproductive health. Since many goats are deficient in these important minerals, the shot is usually administered to goats once yearly.
   
   • Since it’s only available through the vet, you’ll need a prescription for the shot.
   • If you’re breeding your goat(s), it’s a good idea to give them the shot before breeding season. It helps the kid develop properly and protects the dam from complications.
4. Vaccinate your goat annually. Goats should be given the CDT vaccine, which protects against Clostridium perfringens type C and D, as well as tetanus. The vaccine’s effect wanes over time, so you must administer a booster yearly.
   
   • If the goats are breeding, bucks should be given their booster 30 days before breeding season, while dams should get their shot 30 days before kidding. Baby goats should be first vaccinated at 5-6 weeks and then again 3-4 weeks later.^[21]
   • You can also vaccinate the goat against rabies if your vet recommends it. Rabies vaccinations are not standard in goats.^[22]
5. Deworm your goat only after consulting with a vet. Goats can get internal parasites, such as worms, so deworming is helpful. Since there are few dewormers formulated for goats, you’ll likely need to use one made for sheep, cattle, or horses. You’ll need to adjust the dosage based on the size of your goat, which is why you should talk to your vet first.
   
   • If you breed your goats, deworm your dam just after she gives birth, which protects both mother and babies, as the dewormer passes through the mother’s milk.^[23]
   • Young kids should receive their first deworming between 6-8 weeks of age.
   • You can also use this dewormer chart for goats: https://ahdc.vet.cornell.edu/programs/NYSCHAP/docs/GoatDewormerChart.pdf
6. Watch for bloating. Goats can bloat for several reasons, such as overeating, eating an imbalance of foods, or eating something poisonous. In any case, it can be dangerous. If you notice that your goat’s belly is bigger, rounder, and harder than it was the day before, call your vet to get it examined.
   
   • You may also notice that the goat’s belly is distended or that the goat is having trouble walking. The goat may also be gassy.
   • It's best to consult your vet before trying to treat your goat. An example treatment consists of drenching a pint of mineral oil or cooking oil down the goat's throat, and then walking and massaging the goat until it releases the gas. Then mix of sodium bicarbonate into of water or molasses. Feed this to the goat.^[24]
   • Bloating can be very harmful to your goat, so get it treated immediately.

EditVideo

EditTips

• You can keep just 1 goat, but they'll be happier if you have at least 2 goats. Goats will also play with dogs and other livestock.
• Make sure the latch on the fence is on the outside of the gate.
• If you don’t know how to trim hooves, take them to a vet or a hoof care professional.
• Goats love to climb and jump, so give them some sort of big rocks or other items they can jump on.
• If you choose to have a dehorned goat, the recommended age for dehorning is about one week old. Matured goats should only be dehorned by a veterinarian.
• For more information on raising goats in your region, visit your local 4H-Club.

EditWarnings

• Many ornamental plants, like azaleas, are poisonous to goats. Make sure that the plants you provide are safe for your goat.

EditRelated wikiHows

• Show a Goat in 4H
• Care for an Orphan Calf
• Raise Goats
• Play with a Piglet
• Raise Rabbits for Food
• Care for Baby Goats

EditSources and Citations

Cite error: <ref> tags exist, but no <references/> tag was found

from How to of the Day https://ift.tt/2HbVwQo

How to Kill Vines

Removing vines from your garden can be challenging, but there are many different strategies to try! You can kill vines by cutting them down and removing their root systems, or by smothering them with mulch. Vinegar and boiling water are also good, non-toxic options for getting rid of vines. For stubborn, persistent vines, use a systemic herbicide to attack the roots and destroy them for good!

EditSteps

EditRemoving the Vines Manually

1. Cover up to protect your skin from the vines. Some species of vines, such as English ivy, may cause irritation to your skin. Protect yourself by wearing long sleeves, pants, and shoes to cover your skin when you handle vines. You should also wear thick gardening gloves.^[1]
   
   • Proper attire may also protect you from scratches and bug bites while you work.
2. Pry away climbing vines from trees or buildings with a sturdy, flat tool. To avoid damage to the trees or other surfaces they are clinging to, remove vines by using a long, flat object to pry it away. Gently insert a screwdriver, crowbar, or similar tool between each vine and the surface it is clinging to. Slowly pull the vine up and away.^[2]
   
   • If you are removing vines from a tree, pull them off slowly to avoid damaging the tree's bark.
3. Cut away vines with pruning shears or a pruning saw. Cut off climbing vines at a height of . Remove the vines underneath the cut, leaving the top parts to eventually die off without a connection to their root system. Use pruning shears or a razor tooth pruning saw to sever the vines, depending on their thickness.^[3]
   
   • Dispose of all vine cuttings right away as new plants can grow easily from cut stems.
4. Pull or dig the base of the vines out of the ground by hand. If the vine is still fairly small, you should be able to track down the roots. Pull the roots out by hand or use a shovel or trowel to dig the root system out completely. Remove the underground roots, bulbs, and tubers completely to effectively kill the vines.^[4]
   
   • For best results, do this when the soil is moist and soft. You will be able to move more of the dirt around this way, giving you better access to the root system.
   • Note that you might need to dig out vine seedlings regularly for a few months or years to keep the problem under control.
5. Mow vines growing on the ground to kill them easily. Groundcover vines can be controlled by cutting them down with a lawn mower. Use a gas-powered machine that will be powerful enough to cut through tough vines instead of just rolling over them. Doing this at least 3-4 times a year will slowly kill the spreading vine.^[5]
   
   • Electric or rotary mowers are more likely to run over vines than to cut them.
   • If you want to reduce the hard labor of killing vines, this is the best option to try.

EditUsing Non-Toxic Materials to Kill the Vines

1. Smother the vine with mulch. Vines require light, water, and air to survive and grow. Cover the vine with mulch, which is made up of any materials you can use to cover the area where the vines grow. Cover the area thoroughly to deprive the vines of enough light, sun, and air to kill them off within a few weeks.^[6]
   
   • Try to use biodegradable mulch materials like grass cuttings, tree bark, old newspaper, or dead leaves so that they can decompose into the soil after killing the vines.
   • Alternatively, you can cover the vines with plastic sheeting. This will rob the plant of oxygen and build up intense heat, which is likely kill off the vine after a few weeks.
2. Spray the vines with a vinegar mixture. Fill a spray bottle or garden sprayer with a mixture of 80% water and 20% white vinegar. Douse the vines with the mixture. Check their condition after 2-3 days and pull out any dead vines. Repeat the process if necessary.^[7]
   
   • Be careful to avoid spraying other plants with the mixture.
3. Pour boiling water onto the root crown of the vines. Cut away the bulk of the surface vines with pruning shears and discard them. Use a shovel or trowel to dig into the ground until you reach the vine root. Pour of boiling water directly onto the top of the root system, where the roots meet the base of the plant. ^[8]
   

EditApplying a Systemic Herbicide

1. Buy a triclopyr herbicide to kill thick, woody vines. Systemic herbicides enter the vines' circulatory system through their leaves, then kill off their roots. Use a triclopyr herbicide, the strongest type of systemic herbicide, to kill vines that are strong and thick. This will penetrate the tough exterior of the vines easily.^[9]
   
   • Buy herbicide at a local garden center or hardware store.
2. Use a glyphosate herbicide to tackle herbaceous vines. Vines that are fine and plant-like can be removed with a milder systemic herbicide. Apply a glyphosate herbicide to the vine leaves to be absorbed into the circulatory system. Herbaceous vines are not as durable as woody vines and can be killed without need for a more intense poison.^[10]
   
3. Spray isolated vine leaves with systemic herbicide. If you are killing vine leaves on the ground or on a building that are not touching other plants, spray them with herbicide. Apply enough herbicide to completely wet the foliage of the vine. Avoid dousing the leaves enough to cause runoff onto the ground, which may damage the soil and the roots of nearby plants.^[11]
   
   • Do not spray vines growing on trees or other plants.
   • It may take several weeks or months to kill the vines depending on their thickness and how developed their root system is.
   • Multiple applications may be necessary.
4. Cover your other plants with plastic bags or plastic sheeting while you spray. Protect your garden from vine-killing chemicals by covering them completely with thick plastic. To protect their roots, cover the soil surrounding them as much as possible. Ground the plastic with large rocks, bricks, or stakes while you spray.^[12]
   
   • Remove the plastic 2-3 hours after applying the herbicide.
5. Cut away large vines and treat the stumps with herbicide. Larger, well-established vines are likely to be intertwined with other plants or firmly planted on building or trees. Cut away these vines with a pruning saw or shears and leave a stump. Apply an undiluted triclopyr herbicide directly to the freshly cut stump.^[13]
   
   • The treated stump should die within a week or 2 after the herbicide attacks the root system.

EditThings You'll Need

EditPhysically Removing the Vines

• Gloves
• Protective clothing
• Trowel or shovel
• Pruning shears or pruning saw
• Lawn mower

EditUsing Non-Toxic Materials to Kill the Vines

• Mulch
• Plastic sheeting
• Vinegar
• Boiling water

EditUsing a Systemic Herbicide

• Systemic herbicide (glyphosate or triclopyr)
• Plastic bags or sheeting
• Rocks or bricks
• Pruning saw or shears

EditTips

• Do not put vine cuttings in your compost pile as they will take root and grow there.
• Clean your tools with rubbing alcohol after using them.

EditSources and Citations

Cite error: <ref> tags exist, but no <references/> tag was found

from How to of the Day https://ift.tt/2xx0pEb